i82 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA 



even the main stream, and found in front of us open country 

 largely under cultivation. 



Our caravan was to have stopped for the night at the 

 hamlet of Kao-tien-tzu, but with greater zeal than knowledge 

 pushed on 20 li farther to Reh-lung-kuan. This blunder 

 upset my plans and put all things awry. The collecting work 

 had to be curtailed ; it was 10 p.m. before I got any supper, 

 and much of our work had to remain over until the morrow. 



The Pan-Ian shan is the boundary between two Chiarung 

 states. On crossing over we quitted the state of Wassu and 

 entered that of Wokje. The Wassu territory is wildly moun- 

 tainous, well forested, and but little suited to agriculture. In 

 consequence it is sparsely populated, and we encountered 

 very few of the inhabitants en route. The hostels and houses 

 on the main road are in the hands of Chinese or half-castes. 

 The men of Wassu are tall (5 feet 8 inches or thereabouts), 

 with large, muscular frames, frank, open countenances, and 

 are noted hunters of the beasts of forest and crag. The women 

 are sturdy, buxom, and engagingly frank. Both men and 

 women are darker complexioned than the Chinese, and, I am 

 sorry to say, infinitely less cleanly in appearance. They are 

 very fond of jewellery, both sexes wearing bangles of silver 

 and copper, and silver rings studded with coral and turquoise. 

 The women also wear large silver ear-rings, usually having 

 insets of coral and turquoise. The men are addicted to opium- 

 smoking, though possibly this is strictly true only of those 

 engaged near the main roads as porters and muleteers who 

 have come in close contact with the Chinese. 



Reh-lung-kuan, alt. 10,900 feet, is a Wokje village con- 

 sisting of about a score of houses, a small lamasery, and a tall 

 square tower. We found here a spacious and very fair inn, 

 and the people were courteous and obliging. Our carrying 

 coolies were able to purchase opium and a certain amount 

 of food-stuffs. This explained their anxiety to cover 75 li, 

 instead of stopping 20 li short at Kao-tien-tzu. 



On leaving Reh-lung-kuan we descended the right bank 

 of the river, which rises near the Pan-Ian shan pass, for 33 li 

 to the hamlet of Kuan-chin-pa, a short day's march being 

 necessary in order to accomplish the work left over. The day 



