i88 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA 



river is here a broad and turbulent stream, flowing between 

 steep banks composed of loose rocks. A few Poplar, an 

 occasional Cypress (C. torulosa), and the Koelreuteria (the latter 

 was covered with masses of small yellow flowers) are the only 

 trees of note. The region is very sparsely populated, but 

 high up, on the left bank more especially, are a few houses of 

 the same architecture as those of Wokje. 



As travelling companions during the day we had a party 

 of tribesfolk, chiefly women in holiday attire. They were 

 very cheerful, laughing and singing most of the time. On 

 parting company at Sheng-ko-chung they made merry over cups 

 of Chinese wine, the dames officiating as to the manner born. 



It rained heavily during the night, and it was cool and 

 delightfully fresh in the morning when we recommenced our 

 journey down the valley of the Hsaochin Ho. Thirty li below 

 Sheng-ko-chung we passed the large lamasery of Gi-lung, 

 coloured white and picturesquely situated on the right bank 

 of the river. Over a hundred Lamas reside here and exercise 

 considerable authority over the neighbourhood. About lo li 

 beyond this lamasery the river suddenly develops into a series 

 of boiling, roaring cataracts. The fury of the waters was most 

 fearsome to behold, and a wilder stretch of river is scarcely 

 imaginable. Earlier in the day we had crossed to the left 

 bank, and just below the very worst bit of this savage waterway 

 we recrossed to the right bank over a rotten and most unsafe 

 wooden bridge. Some 7 li below this point we reached the 

 hamlet of Pan-ku chiao, alt. 7100 feet, where we found 

 accommodation for the night, having covered 70 li. Just 

 above the hamlet a torrent joins the river on its left bank, 

 and up this lateral valley mountains clad with snow were 

 plainly visible. Bridges are scarce and the few that exist look 

 as if they had not been renewed since this region was conquered, 

 well over a hundred years ago. One thing is certain, they 

 cannot possibly last much longer : the two we crossed during 

 the day were all askew and decidedly dangerous. 



The district is rather less arid than that around Monkong 

 Ting, yet the flora is very poor. Poplar is a common tree, 

 so also is the Koelreuteria, which was a fine sight, with a wealth 

 of flowers, and it evidently enjoys a dry, hot situation. The 



