192 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA 



one of the ancient matriarchal kingdoms of Chinese historians, 

 and at all times a woman holds an important place in its 

 government. Badi, the larger of the two states, is very rich 

 in gold, which, though un worked during recent years, is 

 jealously guarded. Chinese visitors, rich or poor, are cross- 

 questioned as to their business and closely watched during 

 their sojourn in this state. The Badi-Bawang folk often visit 

 Chango on business, and during our stay there we saw several. 

 Most of them were peasant girls and women, dressed so scantily 

 as to scarcely hide their nakedness. They were short in 

 stature, and apparently unwashed from birth ! However, 

 since these were " hewers of wood and drawers of water " of 

 the poorest class, it would be unfair to judge the whole race 

 by them. 



In Chango we lodged at a comfortable inn, having a clean 

 room, well removed from the street and overlooking the river. 

 We spent a quiet day resting and refitting for the final stage 

 of our journey to Tachienlu. The people were not over- 

 inquisitive and those in charge of the inn were exceedingly 

 obliging. Soon after our arrival the magistrate sent me word 

 that he was suffering from pains in the stomach and vomiting, 

 and would be grateful for some medicine to relieve his suffering. 

 I sent him some Epsom-salt and an opiate. The next day 

 word came that he was much better, only too tired to leave 

 his room. A traveller gets many such requests for medicine, 

 and I have generally found quinine, Epsom-salt, and opium pills 

 most useful cures, for which the people were always grateful. 

 On leaving this lonely town of Chango, which I made 

 6700 feet altitude, the road to Tachienlu ascends the right 

 bank of the tributary torrent. We were warned that the road 

 was very difficult, leading through forests and over high moun- 

 tains. It was not long before these statements were verified. 

 The torrent quickly develops into an angry, irresponsible 

 stream ; the road in many places had been washed away and 

 much wading was necessary. Our carriers had great diffi- 

 culty in getting along, and had the waters of the torrent been 

 a few feet higher the road would have been quite impassable. 

 AU the bridges were rotten and most insecure. High up on the 

 moimtain-sides we saw several large hamlets, but there are very 



