196 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA 



We were informed that the road thither was in a dreadful state 

 of disrepair, and that most of the bridges had been washed away 

 by recent floods. 



On clearing the cultivated area around Mao-niu we plunged 

 immediately into a narrow, heavily forested ravine, down which 

 a considerable torrent thundered. Conifers preponderate in 

 these forests, Spruce being particularly abundant. We noticed 

 some huge trees, but the average was about 80 to 100 feet tall. 

 White and Red Birch are common, and I was fortunate enough 

 to secure seeds of the latter. The Sallowthorn {Hippophce 

 salicifolia) is exceedingly common, forming trees 30 to 50 feet 

 tall with a girth of 4 to 10 feet. The size of these trees very 

 much surprised me. Willows, Cherries, and different species of 

 Pyrus are also plentiful. Deutzia, Hydrangea, Philadelphus, 

 Rosa, and Clematis are the principal shrubs, and many were 

 in flower. Primula Cockhurniana, which has orange-scarlet 

 flowers, is the most noteworthy herb hereabouts. 



After wandering several miles through the forests we 

 reached the hamlet of Kuei-yung, alt. 10,100 feet, and 60 li 

 from T'ung-lu-fang. This place consists of half a dozen houses, 

 purely Thibetan in character, built on a slope and surrounded by 

 a considerable area under wheat, barley, and oats. The moun- 

 tains all around are heavily forested with coniferous trees, and in 

 the far distance a snow-capped peak glittered on the horizon. 



The house we lodged in is three-storied with the usual flat 

 mud roof. The walls built of shale-rock are most substantial. 

 Entering through a low doorway we had first to traverse a yard 

 filled with cattle dung, then a piggery where a steep ladder led 

 upwards to a couple of dark empty rooms in which we installed 

 ourselves. A ladder from these rooms led to the roof, where 

 I should have preferred to sleep had it not been raining. The 

 house boasts neither table, stool, nor chair, and we had to 

 improvise as best we could. The Thibetans squat on the 

 floor for their meals, and therefore have no use for tables or 

 chairs. The housewife, a most cheery if dirty person, had a 

 very musical laugh. Things generally appeared a joke to her, 

 and incited her to frequent laughter, which it was pleasant to 

 hear. My followers were oddly amused at the strangeness of 

 things, and appeared to enjoy the novelty. 



