TACHIENLU, THE GATE OF THIBET 209 



the frontier town, Tachienlu is actually the " Gate of Thibet." 

 The country around and beyond is physically purely Thibetan 

 in character, and is ruled by native chieftains. Garrisons of 

 soldiers and a few resident Chinese officials protect the interests 

 of the Celestial empire and keep a sharp eye on the actions of 

 the local rulers. 



It was stated at the commencement of this chapter that the 

 King of Chiala resides at Tachienlu, and perhaps a few details 

 concerning this kingdom and its people may be of interest. 

 According to the Guide Book of Thibet this State came under 

 Chinese influence during the Ming Dynasty, about a.d. 1403, 

 and its Chief was given the rank of a second-class native official, 

 with control over the tribes west of the river Tung and south- 

 wards to Ningyuan Fu. " The Manchu Dynasty, in considera- 

 tion of the above, made the then Chief a third-class native 

 official, with power over three trading companies. New chiefs, 

 chiliarchs, and centurions to the extent of fifty-six were created. 

 This illustrious Chief now controls six subsidiary chiefs, one 

 chiliarch, and forty-eight centurions." Since the date of this 

 appointment the Chinese have increased their grip over these 

 regions, to the curtailment of the Chief's power and authority. 

 Nevertheless, the Thibetans of this region acknowledge this 

 Chief as their supreme ruler, and in domestic affairs his authority 

 is absolute. His native title is "Chiala Djie-po " (King of 

 Chiala) ; his Chinese title, " Ming-ching Ssu," which may be 

 translated " Bright-ruling official." The King and Chinese 

 Prefect (Fu) are supposed to be colleagues, but in reality the 

 King is subordinate, and when paying official visits must make 

 obeisance before the Fu. In what little dealings I had with 

 them I found both to be courteous and obliging, but suspicious 

 and jealous of one another. 



The present King is a slimly built, intelligent man, about 

 forty odd years of age. He took considerable interest in our 

 collecting work around Tachienlu, and with his brother, who is a 

 hunter of much renown, paid us many unofficial visits. He was 

 never tired of watching my companion, Mr. Zappey, fixing up 

 his birds' skins. My own work amongst flowers interested him 

 but little. As a parting gift Mr. Zappey stuffed and mounted 

 a Hoopoe for the King, who evinced almost childlike pleasure 

 VOL. I. — 14 



