THROUGH THE LAOLIN (WILDERNESS) 229 



and fruit are also to be found occupying some temporary 

 stall under these beautiful trees. The road skirts the sides of 

 low hills of red sandstone for considerable distances, and is 

 mainly parallel with, and in full view of, the Ya River. The 

 hills are clad with common Pine {Pinus Massoniana), Cypress 

 (Cupressus funebris) , a jungle-growth of low shrubs, and the 

 scandent Gleichenia linearis. Small trees of Oak and Sweet 

 Chestnut and larger ones of Alder are also common. Groves 

 of tall-growing Bamboos, of course, are everywhere abundant. 

 In the sandstone chffs are very many square-mouthed Mantzu 

 caves ; the scenery is distinctly pretty and pleasing. 



We left Kiakiang at 6.30 a.m. the following day, and 

 quickly reached a ferry, where we crossed over the Ya River, 

 a broad, stony, shallow stream. Quite near this place are 

 two really fine and very large old temples known as Ping- 

 ling-ssu and Kuei-ling-ssu. The first named, in particular, 

 contains some very fine idols ; both, however, have a very 

 deserted and neglected appearance, and give the impression of 

 "glories departed." The sandstone cliffs at the ferry are 

 highly sculptured, but are rapidly weathering away, much 

 of the work being undecipherable and hidden by vegetation. 



The li proved very long, and we did not reach Che-ho-kai 

 until 7 p.m., going steadily the whole day. The distance is 

 80 li, and three ferries, which hinder considerably, have to be 

 crossed. Near the city of Hungya Hsien, which we sighted 

 in the late afternoon, large plantations of Ash trees for the 

 culture of insect white-wax abound. Rice is everywhere 

 the great crop ; the yield was heavier than usual, and the 

 people were busy reaping and threshing it. Fine Banyan 

 trees are plentiful. Alder is abundant, and handsome Nanmu 

 trees are not infrequent around temples and houses. We 

 also noted a small tree of the Hog-plum {Spondias axillaris) 

 bearing quantities of its oblong, yellow, edible fruits. The 

 vegetation generally is similar to that around Kiating, but 

 the Chinese Fir {Cunninghamia lanceolata) is more common 

 and Pine and Cypress less so. 



Che-ho-kai, alt. 1400 feet, is a large and important 

 market village, situated on the right bank of the Ya River. 

 The inn is very fair. I occupied a large room overlooking 



