THROUGH THE LAOLIN (WILDERNESS) 235 



in which we reached the temple. Our gear arrived equally 

 wet some two hours afterwards, and we were some time getting 

 things dry and shipshape. 



The temple of Kwanyin-ping is very large, with many 

 outhouses, and is built entirely of wood. It contains many 

 scores of idols, but is in a poor state of repair. The main road 

 hither is from Yungching Hsien, distant 120 li. During the 

 Chinese fifth and sixth moons (June, July) some two to three 

 thousand pilgrims visit this temple, but for the rest of the year 

 it has scarcely a visitant. The priests reside at Yungching 

 Hsien except at the pilgrim season, a novice being left in charge. 

 This novice lives all alone, without even a dog for a com- 

 panion. As a reward he receives i| catties of rice per diem 

 as rations and 2000 cash (say, half a crown) per annum 

 salary ! In spite of his lonely life, and he has been in charge 

 for three years, this novice was a very cheery person. He 

 moved around quickly, had a ready smile, and chanted hymns 

 and prayers wherever he went. He speedily made a fire for 

 us to dry ourselves and clothing, and made himself generally 

 useful. His cheery influence made itself felt, and my men soon 

 ceased their grumbling over the vileness of the road and my 

 madness in wanting to visit such a place. The novice told us 

 that -the first temple was built on this mountain during the 

 Eastern Han Dynasty (a.d. 25-87). At one time there were as 

 many as 40 temples here, but during Ming times the majority 

 were destroyed, and the temple ornaments melted down. To- 

 day there are only two in any sense habitable, and in one 

 only is a man kept the year round. This same authority vouch- 

 safed the information that the heavy rains were due to the fell- 

 ing of timber ; the country folk holding this view were opposed 

 to further cutting, but the Magistrate at Yungching Hsien 

 pooh-poohed the idea, and insisted on the slaughter being 

 continued, with the result that torrential rains fell every day 

 except in winter, when snow took their place. 



The next morning opened dull and threatening, but eventu- 

 ally the sun came out and we enjoyed a fine day. The temple 

 stands in Hungya Hsien, and is situated on the edge of a 

 precipice. The views looking north-east over the Ya Valley 

 and west to the Thibetan alps are very fine ; some almost 



