11 



DEVELOPAIF.XT, OK WORK IN THE DARK ROOM. 



A proporl}' exposed plate nuay bo easily spoiled in the dark room. 

 In ijisect i)li()to.u:rai)h3', where detail is the essential element desired, 

 the slower, eonlrast devel()[)ers are better than the ([nicker ones used 

 in landscape and portrait work. The following developer has given 

 me good re.snlts for several years. It is al.so well adapted for lantern- 

 slide making: 



< )unop8. 



I. Water _ ... 40 



Sulphite of soila, crystals 8 



Hydroqninone 1 



Bromide of potassinm i 



II. Water 40 



Carbonate of soda, crystals 8 



For ns(% niix eqnal [)arts of I and II. 



Usually beginners do not develop long enough. Let tln^ image come 

 lip slowly and gradually go back into the background. The appear- 

 ance of the image on the back of the plate is often a good criterion 

 when to stop. 



For fixing I use a plain hypo bath of 1 pound hypo in 2 quarts of 

 water, and I pour about a teaspoonful of acid sulphite of soda solu- 

 tion into a <j[uart of hypo in my fixing ti'ay. This acid soda prevents 

 the hypo from discoloring for a long time and helps it to give clear, 

 stainless negjitives. I have had considerable trouble with other mucli 

 more complicated acid fixing baths. 



I liave made but little use of intensifying solutions. I throw away 

 tliin negatives and try again. But I find a reducing solution an essen- 

 tial, especially in making lantern slides. I use an ordinary reducer, 

 composed of 1 ounce of ferricyanide of potassium (red prussiate of 

 potash) dissolved in 10 ounces of water. Pour a few di-ops of this 

 into a little hypo fixing solution, dip the freshly washed negative or 

 lantern slide in a hypo bath foi-a moment, then with a small bi-ush use 

 the reducer locall^'over the ])lale, washing out Jill muddy backgrounds 

 or too dense spots." 



MAKIN(J PRINTS, 



^lake youi' own jirints, for it is th<' most fascinating part of insect 

 phologi'aphy, and your negatives will get better care in your own 

 hands. I have tried the " velox " and similar p;i])ers for making 

 pi-inis, but liud tliat the "aristotype " papers, Iturnislied on terrotype 

 plates, give me the most detail. With water colors oi- ink I often 

 paint out pins or put in hairs on the finished [)iint. I have never 

 tried making very large bromide or other prints from smaller pictures 

 or negativ<»s, but some veiy satisfactory work has I»een done l)y th(» 

 late yiv. V. II. Lowe and others. 



