I 901 WM. BELLOWS — PYRENEES AND ANDORRA 299 



"on foot, if possible;" when she at once suggested the 

 more usual plan of hiring a guide and horse. I thought 

 the idea good, and soon the stalwart Raymond was intro- 

 duced as one well fitted for the work ; he proved a most 

 satisfactory guide. 



We started early next morning, and in half an hour had 

 crossed the frontier of France, and were within the con- 

 fines of the Republic of Andorra. There was nothing to 

 tell the traveller that he had reached another land except 

 afew^small and unassuming stones inserted in the ground. 



All around was solitude and silence as w^e stumbled and 

 panted up the bleak mountain-slopes. We weve bound 

 for the Col de Saldeu, a saddle 8200 feet above sea level, 

 by which the track to the capital of the RepubHc crosses 

 the main chain of the Pyrenees. We reached the summit 

 about ten o'clock, and here, in the haunt of eagles, and in 

 the region of eternal snow% we rested a few moments to 

 admire the superb view. All around were mountains ; in 

 the distance to the right of us could be seen the great 

 snow peaks of the Maladetta region : to the left rose the 

 rocky crags of the Eastern Pyrenees ; while far down 

 below our feet we could now see the splendid forest 

 valleys of Andorra. 



We were soon descending the other side, and down and 

 down we went till we had left the pass some 3000 feet 

 above us. Our first stopping place was to be Saldeu, 

 the first village in the RepubHc. We reached it about 

 midday. It was here, I think, that we first saw the in- 

 habitants : they were out in the fields, bringing in the 

 harvest. Their appearance was primitive, and the head- 

 dress of the women quaint. 



The telegraph is found at Saldeu : and here we saw the 

 single wire that connects the people, somewhat against 

 their will, with the outer world. At the village of Escaldas 

 we passed through large plantations of tobacco : a hot-bed, 



