310 
east side of the fiord. These Lapps are accustomed to tourist visitors, 
and for a small fee will bring the reindeer for their inspection, 
but a previous arrangement must be made. On our visit, reindeer 
about 150 in number, were shown in an enclosure formed for the 
occasion, where we saw the process of lassoing, milking, harnessing, &c., 
and an opportunity was afforded of purchasing reindeer skins, tobacco 
pouches, horn spoons, and such like. 
In the evening we left Tromsé for Hammerfest. This is celebrated 
as being the most northern town in the world (pop. 2,125) and also for 
its extensive trade, being the resort of English, Russian, Dutch, 
Swedish, and Danish, but particularly Russian. The town is infested 
with the odour of cod liver oil, prepared here in large quantities, The 
quotation from Shakespeare (Tempest) “a very ancient and fish-like 
smell” was frequently bandied about amongst the passengers, The 
Russian Government takes great pains to foster its trade with the 
northern provinces which are mainly supplied with corn from that 
country, : 
At 3.30 a.m., on July 13, we were off the North Cape. This rises sheer 
from the sea and perpendicular in some parts to the height of 1,004ft. 
It was very foggy on arrival, but fortunately before our departure, 
after a two hours’ stay, the fog lifted and enabled us to have a good 
view ot the headland, which is situated at the extreme north point of 
the island of Mageroe. Our route was then to Honningsvaag, a small 
fishing-station, where we anchored. This was for the purpose of 
enabling those who wished to be on the highest point of the North 
Cape, a walking distance of 12 miles and over a rugged way, to do so 
if desired. Whether from the swarms of mosquitoes prevalent in these 
parts, or disinclination for the walk, the passengers were satisfied with 
the view of the Cape from the sea. Many, however, landed and had a 
view of the barren country and climbed hills about 1,200ft. in height, 
from whence they supposed the North Cape was seen in the distance. 
At 5 p.m., July 13th, we left for Iceland again passing Tromsé early 
the following morning. At night the sun was visible until 11.30 p.m., 
but a bank of clouds prevented our again seeing it at midnight. 
There is nothing now to remark upon in our voyage, beyond the 
occasional spouting of a whale and the sight of a few sea birds. The» 
ocean was very desolate of ships. Whilst coasting along Iceland glaciers 
were seen stretching down to the shore, and an indistinct glimpse of 
o. . * 
os Se 
