16 ; 
were set out a few decades ago, or reads the explicit directions given 
by all European writers, the methods used by many of even our best 
market gardeners of to-day do not appear to come up to the correct 
standard of culture. Inquiries among asparagus growers go to show 
that beyond seeing that the crowns are right side up and the distances 
approximately maintained, but little attention is paid to placing them. 
Yet considering the advantages which accrue from a good stand, i. e., 
having all of the same age, thus preventing the different treatment 
which clumps of varying ages will for the first few years require, as 
well as the trouble of replanting and the loss of a year’s cutting, almost 
any pains taken to plant correctly would be time, trouble, and money 
saved. It is in fact very little trouble to spread the roots evenly in the 
bottom of the furrow; oreven to form a small hill in the bottom, over 
which to place the roots with the crown resting on the top, does not 
require any great amount of time over and above that required to 
place the roots haphazard in the row. 
The former plan of putting manure in the bottom of the row before 
planting, as well as that of loosening the soil at the bottom so that the 
roots will find an open soil, have been abandoned, the former because 
top dressing and mulching has proved superior, and the other because 
it has been found that asparagus roots are mostly lateral, some even 
growing upward from deeply planted crowns, and that those which 
grow downward thrive best in a more compact stratum. The crowns 
should be promptly covered with about 3 inches of friable soil, and 
this is readily done by a 1-horse plow (the moldboard having been 
removed) being passed down the side of the rows. This leaves the 
plant in a depression, the soil thrown out in opening the rows forming 
a ridge on each side. This depression will gradually become filled 
during the process of cultivation during the succeeding summer. 
Careful weeding and loosening of the soil at frequent intervals 
during the growing season is necessary to keep down the weeds and 
grass, and to preserve a mulch of loose soil to retain the moisture and 
avoid having to water the young plants. 
It is the practice of some growers to stake each plant with a stout 
stick or stave, to which the stalks are tied as soon as they are 18 inches 
high, in order that the winds may not disturb the roots and thus injure 
the vitality of the plants; for, as they grow to the height of 30 to 60 
inches, presenting a leafy top to the winds, they are easily shaken 
backward and forward to the detriment of their roots. In large beds 
this is not done because of the cost, and an effort is made to support 
the stalks by throwing a furrow to each side. 
In the fall when the tops are mature, they should be cut, hauled off, 
and burned; and part of the soil over the crowns should be removed, so 
that not over two or three inches remain, that the frost may penetrate 
and loosen the soil and the rains improve it. This is the reverse of 
the former practice, when the rows were covered with manure for fear 
