CHAPTER IV. 



HAVANA. 



Earh- on the- morning of Sunday. May 21st. we found our- 

 selves in \iew of the Cuban coast, off the city of Matanzas, 

 back of which loomed high mountains, one raising its majestic 

 top. flat and niassi\e. above the clouds which hung o^■er the 

 island. All dav long the ••Emily E.Johnson" sailed along 

 this picturesque coast with a light but fair wind, just a little 

 more than holding her own against the strong current of the 

 Gulf Stream, which sweeps the coast at the rate of three, and 

 in places perhaps four, knots per hour. An occasional village 

 was seen nestling at the foot of the hills, each hamlet with its 

 inevitable church on the one hand and barracks on the other. 



(Jne who travels far from home is constantly reminded of 

 how little we realize the magnitude of countries, rivers, etc.. 

 of which we seldom hear. Eew persons, for example, are 

 aware of the fact that the island of Cuba is over seven hun- 

 dred miles long, and that one could travel in a straight line, 

 theoretically at least, a distance equal to that from New York 

 Cit^" to eastern Illinois, or from New Orleans to Quincw Illi- 

 nois, in going from one end of Cuba to the (;ther. 



As we neared Ha\'ana. the towns along the coast became 

 larger and more pretentious. Then came charming countrv 

 villas, where the aristocracy of Havana retreat from business 

 •cares. Telegraph lines, and perliaps telephones, connected 

 the metropolis with these subvu-ban retreats. Finallv the light- 

 house tower on Morro Castle loomed up in the mist\' atmos- 

 jihere. and the long line of fortiflcations came into \iew. 



As we neared the harbor entrance a little steam launch w ith 

 ofllcials in uniforiu made its appearance off the point. A 

 tierce and sudden rain squall dr<)\e them back, and seiil the 

 •■ Eniil\- "' se\'eral miles to the eastward and southw ard. The 



