10 



editor has been forgotten ; but in his day he was a well known 

 London celebrity. 



I must proceed to make some pickings from it. 



The Roman batierie de aiisine much resembles ours, ours indeed 

 being descended it from it. Although we may have new inventions, 

 I doubt if we have anything better : indeed Dr. Bruce told me that 

 the Duke of Northumberland's French chef\iz.^ had reproduced for 

 his own use some of the Roman cooking implements in the Duke's 

 museum at Alnwick. Large collections of them are in the museums 

 at Herculaneum and Pompeii. Their usual material is bronze 

 tinned, but silver was frequently used. The Romans had the 

 spit iveru), the gridiron (craticula), and the frying-pan {sartagd). 

 They had saucepans of every size, cacalms, cacabidus, zetna, angu- 

 laris,pultarinm. The Roman saucepan differed in shape somewhat 

 from ours : ours broaden to their base ; the Roman narrowed like 

 a tea-cup ; and had a long flat side handle terminating in a circular 

 expansion at the end, in which was a hole, so that the pan could 

 be hung up by its handle. It has been objected that the Roman 

 shape would upset very easily on a fire : so it would, on an open 

 coal fire, but the Roman mainly cooked with charcoal, and to a 

 great extent on stoves. Their saucepans seem to have been made 

 in sets of five, each being, in capacity, a regular multiple of five 

 cyathi,\hQ cyathvs being a Roman measure equal to -08 of our 

 pint. A set preserved at Castle Howard hold each ten, fifteen, 

 twenty-five, fifty, and sixty cyaihi, and the smallest would hold 

 four-fifths of a pint of our measure. There was the stewpan of 

 hronzt, paiina, patella, and of earthenware, cumana; the braizing 

 pan (thermospodion), the oven ffurnus), the Dutch oven (clibatiusj, 

 the bain 7narie pan {duplex vas). A net {reticuliis), or a basket 

 {sportella), was sometimes used in boiling : they had steaming 

 apparatus, strainers, skimmers, drying cloths, moulds, etc., mortars, 

 pestles, hand mills, etc. The mortars {mortaria) are the best 

 known of the Roman kitchen utensils to us : fragments of them 

 turn up everywhere. They were usually made of yellow, drab, 

 or fawn-coloured clay, sometimes of Samian ware, and the surface 

 of the interior is often studded with small siliceous stones, broken 



