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all their sauces and all their dishes, namely gariim or liquamen. 

 It was a sauce made from the intestines and heads of large fish — 

 the tunny, the sturgeon, the mackerel : these were mixed in a vat 

 with salt, and were exposed to the sun for a long time : wine was 

 added, and pot herbs. The art is now completely lost : and we 

 do not know what was this garuin or liquamen which was so dear 

 to the Roman palate. Where it was used, salt was never used, 

 and therefore garum must have had a salt flavour ; yet it was bad, 

 if it was too salt, and honey then was added to it ; salt fish were 

 washed in it, to take away their saltness. On the whole one is 

 inclinM to think that garum was a thin sauce with a delicate salt 

 flavour, a nuance, says Mr. Coote, "a soiipgon which recalled to the 

 jaded Roman the healthy ozonic air of the fresh and tone-giving 

 seas of Baise and Tarentum." Smollet substitutes herring pickle 

 for it. 



To go back to sauces in general : the gravy of the object for 

 which the sauce was intended, was also mixed with the sauce. 

 Starch, bread, and wafer biscuits were used for thickening sauces, 

 also eggs, cooked or raw. 



So much for the Roman sauces. I next come to the various 

 dishes to which the Roman cooks served these sauces. We shall 

 find that they had almost every dish that we have, and a great 

 many that we now reject. We make great use of beef and 

 mutton, which they did not : beef is little used in hot countries. 

 The Romans, however, used veal ; mutton they cared little for 

 except wild ; but lamb was a staple dish, and so was pork — for 

 which they had a complete passion : their pork, fed on figs or 

 chesnuts, was probably as much superior to our pork, as our beef 

 and mutton would be to theirs. 



To take their dishes in a regular order, I will begin with fish. 

 This they cooked in every way that we do : they boiled, stewed, 

 baked, and broiled : they stuffed with various ingredients, and 

 they made rissoles of it. It is an historical fact, recorded in the 

 life of the Emperor Heliogabalus, that that magnificent sensualist 

 was the first inventor of lobster rissoles, which by the way the 

 Roman cooks made in a shape and baked ; our cooks fry them. 



