16 



were very popular. Stew in gariim and pepper, with French 

 beans, and add a sauce of garum, pepper, laser root, and ground 

 cummin seed ; add sippets of bread, and oil. There were several 

 other recipes for lamb stew. Kid was treated in the same way as 

 lamb. The wild sheep, or raouflon of Sardinia, was a favourite 

 dish. For venison they had many sauces, and honey forms an 

 ingredient of the venison and wild sheep sauces, an ingredient for 

 which we now-a-days substitute current jelly. Hare was another 

 popular dish : they stuffed it with pine nuts, almonds, walnuts, 

 peppercorns, its own liver and lights chopped up, and eggs. They 

 baked it, boiled it, roasted it, stewed it, and jugged in many ways 

 and with many sauces. The shoulder-blade was the tit-bit. 



But far above all other dishes did the Roman value pork. And 

 no wonder ; his pigs were fattened upon figs, and died of apoplexy 

 brought on by the sudden administration of a doze of honey and 

 wine. Mr. Coote observes that this "is the nearest approach 

 ever made in sober fact to dying of a rose in aromatic pain." It 

 reminds of the story of the Duke of Clarence and the butt of 

 Malmsey. 



Pliny tells us that pork was the most lucrative dish they had at 

 the cook shops, and that they could give it nearly fifty flavours ; 

 by the time of the Emperor Heliogabalus additional ones had 

 been invented, and Apicius gives over eighty recipes for cooking 

 pork. They roasted it, broiled it, fried it, baked it, boiled it, and 

 stewed it ; they cut it up into all sorts of dishes ; they cooked 

 sucking pig in sixteen different ways ; they did the kidneys in 

 methods that would charm the Cambridge undergraduate ; they 

 made haggis of pork, and here we trace the national dish of Scot- 

 land, as we do its national music, to the Romans : but the Romans 

 made the haggis of pork, the Scots make it of mutton. The 

 recipe is too long to quote. 



With regard to birds and fowls, the Romans were omnivorous : 

 they ate oinnitnoda volatilla, everything that flies; so did our 

 mediaeval ancestors. The swan and peacock, which we now see 

 alone at city and college feasts, are survivals. But Lord William 

 Howard, as his household books show, ate cormorants, and cranes, 



