28 



Roman institutions have a marvellous vitality and energy in 

 them, and the Roman cookery has reasserted itself in England ; 

 partly, no doubt, bv survival (even Hartmann's "Excellent Directions 

 for Cookery,'' published in 1682, are tinged widi Apicianisms,) and 

 partly by re-importation from France, where it has ever lived, it 

 being indeed the cookery of all the Latin races. Kirwan in his 

 " Host and Guest," says that Lord Chesterfield made most 

 strenuous efforts to introduce French cookery into England. He 

 engaged as his chef La Chapelle, a descendant of the cook of 

 Louis XIV. La Chapelle in 1733 published in England a 

 book on cookery in three volumes. Time forbids me to go 

 into the details of that revival ; but I have already proved 

 the connection between our present cookery and the Apician. 

 Carlisle was in a small way a centre of the Apician revival. A 

 few Frenchmen of Lally's regiment were left here after the 1745 ; 

 and in 1758 several hundred French prisoners were sent here on 

 parole, and some of these vivacious gentry set up as dancing and 

 fencing masters, hair dressers, and cooks. A distinctly more 

 expensive style of living was then introduced into Carlisle, and the 

 cookery there became famous in a small way. 



I venture now to think that I have detailed "The History of 

 the English Palate," and traced it up to t ne Roman palate of the 

 Apician school, and through that to the Greek and Lydian. 



Dr. Pegge, in concluding his prefatory essay to the Forme 

 of Cury, apologises for having been occupied with such trifles, 

 and pleads the example of such scholars as Humelbergius, 

 Tomius, Barthius, Dr. I-ister, Almeloveen, and others. I don't set 



and laid within it ; a fowl was boned and laid withiu the duck ; a boned 

 partridge within the fowl ; aad a boned pigeon within the partriilge. The 

 whole having been properly seasoned, the iaterstices were filled with 

 rich gravy ; aud I have liad pieces of writing paper, cut in variniis figures 

 throughout, that were the patterns by which she made her Floreudiues. " 



There is nothing new under the sun; aud analogues of the "great 

 battalia pie" were plentiful in Roman cookery. See the Banquet scene in 

 Professor Becker's " Gallus," ami some very curious passages in Soyer's 

 "Pantropheon."— From G. A. S. in Illustrated News of March 15, 1884. 



The "great battalia pie" is the great raised game pie, known as the 

 Yorkshire pie. — K. S. F. 



