CHAPTER II. 



hi Gallegos : Coitrteottsly received by Governor Mayer and Staff : Fire as 

 a means of comfort nnknowu in South America : Discomforts of Gal- 

 legos : Enormous rise and fall of tide in river at Gallegos : Antiquated 

 methods of overland travel and transportation of produce in Patagonia: 

 Visit to Governor Mayer s estancia : Guer A ike: Mata verde: The 

 plains of Patagonia : Lagiina Leona: A diminutive oasis due to a 

 small spring of sweet water: its effect upon the fauna and flora : Origin 

 of Laguna Leona : Coy River : Two classes of rivers in the Patagonian 

 plains: Visit to an Indian encampment : Mate drinking among the 

 Indians and Argentinians : We return to Gallegos : Purchase of horses 

 and cart: Peculiar custom of pulling horses from the cinch in Argen- 

 tina : Leave Gallegos equipped for work, May i6, i8g6. 



THE walk from the beach to the government building had practic- 

 ally been a wade through the mud, so that we all arrived in a 

 somewhat uncomfortable condition. The building was a large, 

 barn-like structure two stories high, built of native lumber. Without, it 

 was weather-boarded and roofed with galvanized iron. Within, it was 

 unplastered, but sealed with rough lumber covered with cheap cloth and 

 then indifferently papered. In one room there was a billiard table, and 

 the Governor's private library of some six thousand well selected volumes, 

 consisting about equally of French, Spanish, German and English, for 

 the General was an accomplished linguist. In another room stood a 

 grand piano and a handsome American organ. Notwithstanding all these 

 articles which in our own country might be taken as indicative of a com- 

 fortable residence, there was naught of real comfort about the place. 

 Although we arrived in a condition which at once bespoke our discom- 

 fort, and were received with the greatest cordiality, nothing was done to 

 relieve our distress, due to wet feet and water-soaked shoes. We were 

 ushered into no reception room provided with easy chairs and made com- 

 fortable with the glowing warmth of a cheerful fire. To use a common 



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