TEHUELCHE VILLAGE. 45 



variety. These appeared so suddenly and in such numbers from all the 

 toldos, and rushed upon us with such apparent fury, at the same time 

 setting up such a pandemonium of savage barks, howls and growls, that 

 for a time it looked as though they were intent on making a breakfast of 

 us. The first alarm over, however, they disappeared almost as suddenly 

 as they had appeared, so that we felt safe in dismounting and proffering 

 the hand of friendship to the so-called giants of Patagonia. We were 

 received with evident friendship and shown into one of the toldos, where 

 yerba was being served, of which we were invited to partake, but declined. 

 At this they took no offense, but continued in as friendly a manner as- 

 before, notwithstanding that other writers have stated that to refuse to 

 take mate, or yerba, as it is called, is regarded by these Indians, and the 

 Argentine gaucho as well, as a grave insult. During my three years' 

 experience in Patagonia I found that these people were quite as reason- 

 able as ourselves about such matters and freely accorded to all the privi- 

 lege of declining this or any other favor offered. 



Since the custom of taking mate is such a peculiar and prevalent orre, 

 not only in Patagonia, but throughout Argentina and much of South 

 America as well, I shall diverge a little at this point in order to describe 

 it. The beverage is made from the powdered leaves and stems of Ilex 

 paragitayensis, a plant indigenous to Paraguay and portions of the interior 

 of Brazil. Enough of this is placed in a cup, small gourd or other vessel 

 to nearly fill it, then just enough cold water is poured in to moisten the 

 contents, when a tube, usually made of brass, with a perforated bulb at the 

 lower end, is introduced and pushed down to the bottom of the cup. A 

 kettle with water is kept boiling over the fire and from this the cup is 

 filled and passed successively to the different members of the party. Each 

 person, on receiving the cup, sucks the liquid through the tube until the 

 contents are exhausted, then returns it to the person who has volunteered 

 to serve mate, by whom it is refilled and handed to another, and so on 

 indefinitely. This process is kept up frequently for several hours at a time. 

 But one cup and tube are used, and it is said to be the height of bad taste 

 to wipe or in any way cleanse the tube before placing it in the mouth. 

 So fond are the natives of this habit that they waste much valuable time 

 and will neglect almost any work, no matter how urgent it may be, to 

 indulge themselves in it. It is not a stimulant, I should say, but rather 

 a sedative, and the claim is made for it by the advocates of its use that 



