INHOSPITABLE RECEPTION. 89 



rated with blood, and a feeling of faintness gradually creeping over me, 

 as I came to a wide, shallow basin where the grass was unusually long and 

 thick, I decided that prudence dictated that I should stop, since the con- 

 stant motion of my horse was evidently not beneficial to my wound. No 

 stone or bush being near, I picketed my horse with one of the long bones 

 from a guanaco skeleton and, cutting a few handfuls of grass, which I put 

 in a convenient place, I unsaddled and, placing two pocket handkerchiefs 

 over the wound, drew my Stetson hat down tightly over them, and wrapped 

 in saddle blankets and slicker, with my saddle for a pillow, I lay down on 

 the ground, protected from the dampness beneath by the few handfuls of 

 grass previously prepared. I confidently expected that I should be able 

 to resume my journey the same day and to reach Ooshii Aike late that 

 night. However, such was not to be the case, and while the wound did 

 not bleed so profusely, it was far into the night before it ceased altogether, 

 and I finally fell asleep. 



When I awoke the following morning, weary, weak and chilled to the 

 marrow by the cold and penetrating wind, I saddled my horse and re- 

 sumed my journey. I arrived at Ooshii Aike about ten o'clock the same 

 morning, cold, hungry, and well-nigh exhausted, for I had had nothing 

 to eat except the lunch given me by Mrs. Kark. Instead of meeting 

 with the warm and hospitable reception I was so much in need of, I ex- 

 perienced the only rude treatment I ever met with throughout all my 

 travels in Patagonia. When I applied for admission at the door, I 

 was met by a surly Italian who, as I afterwards learned, was officiating as 

 cook. To a request for something to eat and the use of soap and warm 

 water with which to wash and bathe my wound, he returned a negative 

 reply. My weakened and altogether miserable condition was plainly visi- 

 ble and would under ordinary circumstances have bespoken for me at 

 least humane treatment. In vain I told him of my protracted fast, the 

 night on the pampa, and the painful accident with which I had met. I 

 made it clear to him that I was quite willing to pay for any accommoda- 

 tion he would grant me, and lest he might think I was deceiving him, dis- 

 played to him my ability to do so. He remained obdurate. As I stood 

 for an instant considering what I should do, well knowing I was unfit to 

 attempt the additional twenty-five miles that lay between this place and 

 the next settlement, I decided that, if there was anything which would 

 minister to my immediate necessities within the house, this " dago " should 



