CAUGHT IN A BLIZZARD. 



191 



which at a little distance west of the town rises to an elevation of some 

 four hundred feet, when the inclemency of the weather increased and the 

 rain descended in torrents, thoroughly drenching myself and my already 

 jaded horses quite to the skin. On account of the melting snow and 

 continued rains the surface of the level pampa had assumed all the char- 

 acteristics of a quagmire. Instead of presenting, as in its normal state, 

 a dry and almost barren surface, it appeared as a shallow swamp, almost 

 limitless in expanse, through the deep mud and water of which my horses 

 travelled with the greatest difficulty. At a distance of some thirty miles 

 there was a sheep farmer's residence, where I had intended, on setting 

 out, to pass the night. As the afternoon advanced, the fury of the storm 

 increased, and toward evening the temperature fell and the rain changed 

 to snow. This, driven by the terrific winds, only increased my discom- 

 forts and added to the darkness of the night which closed about me 

 while yet several miles from my destination. I held patiently on my 

 course, however, and about ten o'clock in the evening reached the estan- 

 cia. Fortunately the occupants had not yet gone to bed, and, aroused by 

 the barking of the dogs, two of the men came out and were only too glad 

 to care for my horses, which, considering my benumbed and crippled 

 condition, was indeed most welcome assistance. Within I found such 

 comfort about the cheerful fire, as compared with the squalor of the best 

 accommodations we were able to procure in Santa Cruz, made me almost 

 glad I had braved the rigors of the storm. The good farmer's wife was 

 not long in preparing for me an excellent meal, after partaking of which I 

 retired for the night, thoroughly wearied with my long and tiresome ride. 



Long before my arrival at the estancia the storm had assumed all the 

 appearance of a genuine blizzard. This continued to rage throughout 

 the night and the following day. Before morning the temperature had 

 fallen to zero or below, and the snow was driven by the winds and piled 

 in great drifts, completely covering the bushes and filling the smaller 

 gulches, while the waters which had accumulated in broad, shallow lakes 

 on the surface of the pampas were transformed into sheets of ice. So 

 long as the blizzard continued, I could only remain as a welcome guest 

 of the people at the estancia. 



The morning of the second day after my arrival broke cold, clear and 

 calm, and, notwithstanding the entreaties of my friends, through my great 

 desire to reach Gallegos and receive the mail which I knew must be 



