192 PATAGONIAN EXPEDITIONS: NARRATIVE. 



awaiting me there, I was forced to decline their further hospitality and 

 proceed on my journey. The high pampas were one broad sheet of glis- 

 tening snow and ice, while the canons were exceedingly treacherous from 

 being choked with drifted snow. In my crippled condition I could walk 

 only with the greatest difficulty, and progress on foot was not only 

 painful but exceedingly tedious. To mount or dismount from my horse 

 required great effort and was attended with considerable pain. On account 

 of the ice and the unshod condition of my horses, travelling on horse- 

 back, especially in my crippled and inactive state, was not without its 

 dangers. Frequently within the distance of a single mile my horse 

 would receive several falls, and it was not an uncommon sight to see all 

 five of the poor animals floundering on the ice at the same time. From 

 experience I soon learned that prudence demanded that, wherever a par- 

 ticularly smooth sheet of ice had to be crossed, I dismount and either 

 lead or drive the horses in front of me. So difficult was the travelling 

 over the ninety-five miles of country that lay between me and Gallegos, 

 that it was only by husbanding the strength of my horses in every pos- 

 sible way that I succeeded in reaching the estancia of Mr. Halliday at 

 North Gallegos, late on the evening of the fifth day, with only one horse, 

 having abandoned the others at various stages of my journey when, 

 through fatigue, they became unable to travel farther. 



It is needless to say that I was hospitably received and well cared for 

 at the home of Mr. Halliday, whose hospitality, as well as that of his wife 

 and family, are proverbial throughout Patagonia. I learned from Mr. 

 Halliday that a considerable quantity of mail was awaiting me at Killik 

 Aike, which one of his sons volunteered to go for that same evening, a 

 very thoughtful and highly appreciated kindness on his part. 



I remained at Mr. Halliday's a few days and then crossed the river to 

 the Port of Gallegos, where I found more mail awaiting me. Although I 

 had been greatly delayed in reaching Gallegos, I arrived ahead of the 

 steamer for which Mr. Colburn had waited in Santa Cruz, and I had 

 therefore the pleasure of seeing him on his arrival when the vessel called 

 at Gallegos and of bidding him a second good-bye as he reembarked for 

 his return to Sandy Point. 



At Gallegos I received such medical assistance as was possible, and, 

 securing accommodations at the best hotel in the place, I tried to recover 

 from my crippled condition. It was August and late winter, but notwith- 



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