THE MARAUDING MASAI 



only six months previously. We kept an especially vigilant 

 watch ; but as it rained continuously from four in the afternoon 

 till eleven o'clock the next morning, I felt that we were safe, 

 for Masai are reported to lose most of their energy when cold 

 and wet. 



After the "Kiboko" we had to cross the "Salt River," and then 

 make the last two days' journey over the " Nyika." The country 

 began to rise more rapidly. We had fine views to the west across 

 a lava plain to the craters of the Kyulu chain, and before us rose 

 the sharp ridges of the Iveti Mountains. The first of these was 

 a conical peak named Ngu. Owing to its position far out on 

 the plains it forms a splendid watch-tower, and on it Wa-kamba 

 scouts are always stationed, so as to give timely warning of the 

 approach of any raiding parties of Masai. We soon found 

 further proof of the activity of these fieebooters. Scattered 

 over the path were broken boxes and bottles, which were 

 being sent to Sir Gerald Portal's party in Uganda. We heard 

 at the next station that a caravan, laden with reserve stores for 

 the Commissioner, had been attacked here a few weeks before 

 and all the loads destroyed. Thrice during the past three 

 months the Masai had routed caravans along this section of 

 the road. 



Two days later we reached the ridge of Nzaoi, and camped 

 on a platform at its base. Nzaoi is a narrow ridge of gneiss, 

 sloping gradually to the north, but facing the south with a 

 precipitous cliff nearly 2000 feet in height.^ Lugard well 

 describes it as " the massive sentinel that guards the gate to 

 the heart of Africa." We were all delighted to pass through 

 the gate from the barren wastes of the Nyika into the fertile 

 valleys of Ukamba. Magile, the " Mzee" or chief of the district, 

 called to see me and ask for a present. This I promised him 

 if his people would bring us food for sale. He said they had 

 none, as Sir Gerald Portal's caravan and one that had recently 

 returned from Uganda had eaten the district bare. He told 

 us, however, that neither of these caravans had purchased any 

 food at Kilungu, a long day's march farther to the north, 

 and there I could buy as much as I wanted. He said he 

 would do his best to get us a little, but his efforts were not 



1 The camping-ground is at the height of 3700 feet ; the summit of the peak at 

 about 6000 feet. 



