86 ON THE UGANDA ROAD part ii 



advised him to stick to one excuse in the future, and con- 

 tinued my way to Machakos. Afraid of being left alone, the 

 Askari at length plunged in ; but he swallowed some water, 

 lost his head, and was swept down stream, until he was 

 rescued by a young Mkamba warrior. 



Late the same evening, in a tremendous downpour of rain, 

 we reached the British East Africa Company's station at 

 Machakos. The porters had arrived there several hours pre- 

 viously, and had given Mr. Ainsworth, the officer in charge, 

 such a remarkable account of my habits that he was puzzled 

 as to who was coming. He invited me to stay with him, and 

 at once gave me some hot tea, which was very welcome. I 

 was wet to the skin, and as I had forgotten to take any beads 

 with me in the morning, all the food I had been able to get 

 during the day was some arrowroot ("mhogo") cooked in "ghee" 

 (a kind of native butter), which a Mkamba had given to me 

 in exchange for my pocket-handkerchief. 



The fort of Machakos was originally founded in 1889. In 

 the following year Captain Lugard recognised the value of the 

 position, and greatly enlarged and strengthened the station. It 

 is situated in a rich food country, and the meteorological returns 

 show that it is better adapted for European colonisation than 

 any other part of British East Africa. On the neighbouring 

 hills there is a dense population, and the people are enter- 

 prising and industrious. In the early days of the fort they 

 were hostile, and twice attempted to storm it. At the present 

 time, however, their attitude is most friendly, thanks to the 

 tact and skill Mr. Ainsworth displays in his administration of 

 the district. Most of the work of the station is now done by 

 Wa-kamba, who, under Ainsworth's influence, show that they 

 are willing to work and able to learn. The mail is carried to 

 Tzavo more expeditiously and economically than when Zanzi- 

 bari runners were employed. The fort is garrisoned by a 

 company of Wa-kamba, whose fidelity and fighting capacity 

 have recently been tested. In 1894 the Masai made a 

 sudden attack upon the fort, but were defeated with heavy 

 loss. Mr. Ainsworth is enthusiastic about the Wa-kamba and 

 the possibilities of their country ; and this is not due to an 

 indiscriminate love of aborigines, for he dislikes the Somali 

 more than I do, which is saying a good deal. 



