A CRAZY GUIDE 149 



the south-south-west, until we came opposite to the " domo," 

 or pass, which we had seen from the plains. A steep zigzag 

 game track led towards it, and during the ascent of this we 

 enjoyed a series of magnificent panoramic views of the Rift 

 Valley and Lake Baringo. 



We crossed the summit of the pass and descended to the 

 springs of " Njoro Larabwal." Here we intended to rest for 

 a couple of hours and. then resume our march to the southern 

 end of the basin. But a message came from Omari that the 

 porter Jumbe had fallen ill and could not walk. I returned 

 with a hammock, some medicine, and eight porters to fetch 

 him. Carrying the invalid up the steep slope proved a difficult 

 task, and when we reached camp it was too late to go farther. 



Next day we crossed the basin of Larabwal, and had again 

 to make a shorter march than we had intended. The guide 

 was seized with one of his crazy fits, and nothing we could 

 do would allay his frenzy, or rouse him from his subsequent 

 sullen stupor. The great cliff of Doenyo lol Mwaru rose high 

 above us, and to be caught at night upon its face involved 

 dangers too serious to be lightly risked. We therefore camped 

 beside the river, the Guaso el Narua, and nursed the poor 

 Mkwafi till the morning. Some fish we caught in the stream 

 consoled me for the delay. 



We struck camp at daybreak, crossed a tributary to the 

 river, and reached the foot of a wall of rock that seemed to 

 bar further progress. The guide led us round the base of a 

 spur, to a game track, which mounted by a very sinuous course 

 up the face of the cliff. Numerous halts were necessary, but 

 they were doubly useful ; the ascent was very toilsome, and 

 rests were welcome. The whole region of the foot-hills, the 

 basins of Larabwal and Lake Baringo, lay spread out before us 

 with the diagrammatic clearness of a map. After an ascent of 

 1400 feet the track became horizontal, and ran south along 

 the face of the cliff to a gap at its southern end. We expected 

 that this cliff was the face of the main Laikipia plateau, and 

 that after we had gained its summit our course would be level. 

 We found, however, that a deep ravine lay between us and the 

 steppes beyond. At first it looked as if we should have to 

 descend into this gorge, but the guide led us to a narrow ridge 

 at its head, by which we easily crossed to the plateau. 



