THE IRISH ARAN. 33 
We next cross the monotonous central bog of Ireland, where 
the railway runs for 40 to 50 miles parallel to a canal, pass 
Maynooth and cross the Shannon at Athlone, entering into 
Connaught ; then, passing Ballinasloe, noted for its great sheep 
fair, and through the blood-stained district around Woodford, we 
end our railway journey in the city of Galway. To judge from 
the number of fortalices scattered about on both sides of the 
line, life must have been very insecure in the good old days, 
as these towers have evidently been built for purposes of 
defence. 
The city of Galway itself has almost the appearance of a foreign 
town from its narrow streets and the architecture, which has been 
much influenced by the great intercourse which at one time 
existed between this port and Spain. This has all ceased now, 
and the great warehouses in which were stored rich cargoes of 
wine and other goods lie mouldering to decay, and its once 
busy quays are silent. Near the quays is the queer-looking 
Claddagh or fishing settlement, consisting of rows of white- 
washed cabins. The fishermen living here form a common- 
wealth of themselves, and are governed by a Mayor, elected 
annually, who exercises his authority quite outside the sanction 
of the law. 
Through the city itself flows the short river Corrib, carrying the 
drainage of Lough Corrib into the sea. Standing on the bridge 
in Galway over this river, we may see at the same time hundreds 
of salmon lying in the stream, waiting until there is enough water 
in the ladder to allow them to ascend to their breeding-ground in 
the Lough. One wonders how they can lie almost motionless in 
the swiftly-running current. 
The two modes of reaching Aran from Galway are by steamer 
and by sailing-boat. The steamer is advertised to sail once or 
twice a week in the summer, but anyone trusting to it is very 
likely to be left stranded in Galway, as it may make only one or 
two trips in the season. If we sail there is a choice between 
engaging a passage in the Post-boat, which starts three times a 
week, ‘‘ weather permitting,” or to engage one of the decked 
3 
