A RECENT VISIT TO THE DALMATIAN COAST. 61 
to Spalato, where he had built a house worthy of his name and 
fame, and where he spent the last years of his life, following the 
peaceful occupation of horticulture, and cultivating those cabbages 
which he refers to in his letter to his old colleague, Maximian, as 
affording him greater pleasure than all the sweets of despotic rule. 
On the gentle slopes which border the lake-like sea-inlet a little 
north of Spalato lie the remains of the city of Salona, once the 
capital of the ancient Roman province of Illyria. In passing amid 
the huge lines of stones which now cover the ancient site of the 
town, so complete has been the destruction that we found it 
difficult to realize that we were actually on the spot occupied 1,200 
years ago by a thriving and prosperous town at least half the size 
of ancient Constantinople. Here and there, however, are still the 
ruins of the old walls, and under local guidance we soon found 
remains of great interest. On the right of the road as we come 
from Spalato, is the aqueduct which was built by Diocletian to 
supply his palace with water from the sources of the Giadro. This 
aqueduct has of late years been repaired, and now supplies the 
modern town of Spalato with water. 
At the extreme west of the city, commanding a fine view over 
the sea-inlet, is the amphitheatre, and, beyond the limits of the 
city, towards Trau, the remains of a long line of wall apparently 
connecting Salona with a port further down the coast. But 
amongst the ruins of this ancient city by far the most important 
and interesting are those of the basilica. Here we have the 
remains of a Christian church apparently untouched since the early 
part of the seventh century. The site, as was usual in the early 
churches, was outside the walls of the town, and recent excavations 
have shown that the building was founded upon a smaller and still 
earlier church, whose foundation walls are in part visible. It is 
evident that the ground occupied by these churches was at one 
time a Roman cemetery, for pagan sarcophagi have been found in 
great numbers, and can still be seen underlying its foundations. 
As we have already dealt at Spalato with some of the evolution- 
_ary problems of architecture, it may not perhaps be out of place 
here to call attention to another important linking of the past and 
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