CARDIAD^E. COCKLE. 35 



In the reign of King John, we read of vessels called 

 " cogs." They were supposed to be short and of great 

 breadth, like a cockle-shell, whence they are said to have 

 derived their name. The name " cog " was variously 

 written, viz. kogge, gogga, kogh, cocka, coqua, etc. 

 " Cogs " were used for the conveyance of passengers 

 from England to France, and as coasting vessels.* 



Cockle Soup. — Scald, drain, beard, and wash carefully 

 four dozen of cockles, reserving their liquor in a pan, 

 Put 4 ounces of butter into a stewpan to barely dissolve 

 over the fire ; mix in 4 ounces of flour ; moisten with a 

 pint and a half of good white stock or milk ; season 

 with nutmeg, a pinch of cayenne, and a teaspoonful of 

 anchovy ; add half a pint of cream ; stir over the fire 

 for a quarter of an hour's gentle boiling, and then, hav- 

 ing cut the cockles in halves, pour the hot soup over 

 them in the tureen. f 



Cockle Sauce. — Clean cockles thoroughly from all 

 particles of sand, put them into a saucepan with the 

 liquor and a little water, thicken with flour and butter, 

 adding pepper, salt, a little mace, and some cream. 



Soyer's Porridge of Cockles, oysters, or mussels, for 

 the poor. They make a most nourishing and palatable 

 food, and on the coast a very economical one. — Take two 

 dozen oysters, or if you use cockles or mussels take a 

 quart of either, put them into an earthen jar with their 

 liquor and three tablespoonfuls of flour ; place it on the 

 fire and stir them round and round ; add a little salt and 

 pepper and they are done. Eat them thus or add 

 them to soup or porridge. A little dripping or lard is 

 an improvement, also a bay leaf, mint, or an onion sliced. 



* See Hist, of the Royal Navy, by Sir K H. Nicolas, vol. i., note, p. 128. 

 f Francatelli's ' Cook's Guide.' 



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