CHAP. CIV. BETULA CE&. A’LNUS. , 1685 
layers, cuttings of the shoots, cuttings of the root, and grafting. Du Hamel 
says that a large stool or stump of alder, split with a hatchet into five or six 
pieces, and planted, will form so many trees; and, also, that if, instead of 
splitting this stool, it be covered over 2in. or 3in. deep with soil, it will, in 
two or three years, throw up shoots, which will become rooted plants. We 
have planted with success, he says, trees obtained in this way, of 7 ft., 8 ft., and 
10 ft. in height, without heading them down; but, in situations exposed to 
the wind, they require to be cut down to within 5 in, or 6in. of the surface 
of the ground. Another mode of multiplying the alder is, to cut a young branch 
half through at the ground, lay it down horizontally along the surface, and 
cover it with 2in. of soil, when almost every bud will produce a shoot, and 
every shoot will form roots. We have already described this mode as em- 
ployed for raising plum stocks. (See p. 690.) Notwithstanding these different 
modes, which are essential for the varieties, all writers agree that the species 
is best propagated by seeds. When large truncheons are made use of, it 
would appear that they only succeed satisfactorily in a very moist soil; for 
a writer in the Bath Society Papers, vol. vi. (published in 1792), says, “ From 
the authority of great masters in their way, Miller, Mortimer, &c., I was 
induced to plant a waggon-load of alder truncheons, in 1764, in boggy places, 
and along the banks of a river, as directed. I was flattered, the next summer, 
with every prospect of success, their shoots being strong and gross; but, lo! 
the year following one and all perished, not having struck a single root.’ 
The writer was therefore obliged to replant the ground with rooted slips, 
taken from old stools, which did very well. The failure may probably have 
been owing to the second summer being a dry one; and, at all events, it 
will show the propriety of taking the precaution used in Jersey, when trun- 
cheons are employed for propagating this tree. 
For raising the alder from seeds, Sang directs the catkins to be gathered 
in dry weather, as soon as the seeds are matured (which is easily known by 
the scales beginning to open), and carried to a loft, where they should be 
spread out thinly. “ They are afterwards to be frequently turned, and the seeds 
will fall out in the act of turning. They are much more ready to drop out, 
if the loft happen to be placed above an apartment where a good fire is kept. 
When all the seeds which will readily come out by the above plan have 
escaped, and are lying on the floor, gather them up into a bag for spring sow- 
ing. The cones are then to be thrashed and sifted. Alder seeds may, like 
those of the birch, be sown from the tree; but, like the birch, the germinating 
alders are liable to be destroyed by early frosts in the spring.” (Nic, Pi. 
Kal., p. 482.) The proper time of sowing, the same author continues, “ is 
March; and the covering, which ought to be of very light soil, should, on no 
account, exceed a quarter of an inch in thickness. It being no easy thing to 
know the quality of alder seed,” he observes, “ it is better to sow pretty 
thick, and to thin out the plants, if necessary, the following spring.” The 
seeds are generally collected about the end of October, or the beginning of 
November. Where the trees overhang water, it is recommended by the 
Continental authors to cut off the extremities of the branches containing the 
catkins, and let them drop into the water, afterwards fishing them out with 
nets. The cones may be kept till spring, if in a perfectly dry situation, and 
excluded from the air. The seeds may be proved before sowing, by bruising 
them on the thumb nail; when, if they have any kernel, it will show a white 
farinaceous substance, and some appearance of oily or watery matter. All 
agree that, when sown, the seeds should be very slightly covered with soil. 
In loamy ground, one sixth part of an inch of light soil strewed over them 
will be found enough ; and in light soils the seeds will be sufficiently covered 
by a good watering from the rose of a watering-pot; or the operation of 
covering may be left to the first shower. After the seeds are sown, it is a 
great advantage, in dry climates, to cover the surface of the bed with pease- 
haulm, fronds of firs, moss, or loose leaves; or to stretch over it close 
wicker hurdles, supporting them by props at about 2in. or 3in. above the 
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