6 A NATURALIST IN MEXICO. 



solemnly impressive was the liberal splendor of the sky. 

 The full moon looked down upon and was reflected by 

 waters of perfect smoothness. The airwasasmrld as June 

 in Pennsylvania, while at night the Southern Cross and the 

 North Star blazed in the horizon at the same time. As we 

 steered westward, after leaving Havana, both of these 

 heavenly sentinels were seen abeam, the constellation on 

 our port side and the North Star on our starboard. 



On the morning of the 23rd we reached Progreso, and 

 came to anchor four miles from shore. It was necessary to 

 keep at this distance on account of the extreme shallowness 

 of the water, and, also, to be in readiness for the sudden 

 advent af a norther. We procured a shore boat to take us 

 and our baggage on shore, and landed at a wharf covered 

 with bales of hemp and brown-skinned natives with white 

 suits on. The customs examinations were soon passed, 

 and we were at liberty to go wherever our own will should 

 lead us. 



Progreso, like some of our new western cities, is 

 better laid out than settled. It has its straight, broad 

 streets running through chaparral, its grand plaza, with 

 scarcely a corner of it yet occupied, and its corner lots at 

 fabulous prices. The market-place is a projecting, thatched 

 roof over the side of a one-story edifice. On mats sit 

 brown old ladies, with almost equally old-looking vegeta- 

 bles. Here are oranges, bananas, black beans, squash 

 seeds boiled in molasses, a sort of candy, and other escu- 

 lents, to us unknown. 



The houses of Progreso are of one story, of mortar or 

 thatch, covered with a high roof of thatch. This high 

 roof is open inside, and makes them shady and cool. The 

 sides are also often of thatch, and they look like a brown 

 dwarf with a huge, brown straw sombrero pulled over his 

 eyes. Some of these built of mortar have ornamental 



