HA VANA. 3 



dun-colored rock, upon whose precipitous side the fortifica- 

 tion is terraced. It stands just at the entrance of the nar- 

 row channel leading to the city, so that in passing in, one 

 can easily exchange greetings with the sentry on the outer 

 battlement. 



On the opposite shore the battery of La Punta stands 

 guard over that side of the channel. Passing through the 

 narrow channel between these two fortifications we entered 

 the harbor, steamed up the strait to where it widens into a 

 basin, made fast to a buoy, and had our first glimpse of 

 cocoa-palms. Some harbor-boats took us ashore. We 

 landed at broad stone steps pervaded by smells, passed into 

 the Custom House, and out of it into paved lanes full of 

 donkeys, negroes, soldiers, sellers of fruit and lottery-tick- 

 ets, engaged in transactions in a debased fractional currency. 

 The money of the debt-ridden island is that of our "shin- 

 plaster" war period. A couple of boiled eggs in a common 

 restaurant cost forty cents; a ride in a horse-car thirty-five. 

 The wages of a minor clerk at the same time were but ^40 

 or $50 a month. How does he make ends meet and pro- 

 vide for his future? 



Havana is a thoroughly representative city — Cuban and 

 nothing else. Its history embraces in no small degree that 

 of all the island, being the center of its talent, wealth, and 

 population. The harbor, or bay, is shaped like one's out- 

 spread hand, with the wrist for an entrance, and is populous 

 witji the ships of all nations. It presents at all times a 

 scene of great maritime activity. Besides the national ships 

 of other countries and those of Spain, mail steamers from 

 Europe and America are coming and going daily; also 

 coasting steamers from the eastern and southern shores of 

 the island, added to regular lines for Mexico and the isl- 

 ands of the Caribbean Sea. The large ferry steamers ply- 

 ing constantly between the city and the Regla shore, the 



