CHAPTER VI. 



Early on the morning of the 26th we sighted the snow- 

 capped peak of Orizaba, rising above the clouds. It was a 

 grand sight; the sun was shinning brightly, and the clouds 

 about the peak were golden-tinted. It was not a grand 

 sight that met our gaze, as, a few hours later, we sighted 

 the City of Veracruz. A half mile or so of buildings, com- 

 pact and solid, with blackened domes and steeples; yellow 

 for the most part, scarlet, pink, green, and blue, in patches; 

 a stone landing-quay, and a series of iron cranes projecting 

 from it. To the left was a reddish fort. There were no 

 suburbs, only long,^ dreary stretches of sand. Very far 

 down on the sand, with the sea breaking over her, was a 

 vessel, wrecked during a recent norther. As we steamed 

 into the harbor, I noted on either side a number of coral 

 reefs which appeared to form atolls. We came to anchor 

 under the lee of the old fort of San Juan de la Ulua. The 

 health officers soon appeared, and after their inspection we 

 were permitted to land. 



Passengers. were obliged, here as in the States, to open 

 their baggage for inspection, and declare any dutiable 

 articles. The Mexican free list included personal clothing, 

 articles worn in use, as watch, cane, etc., and firearms (one 

 or two with their accessories). Each adult male passenger 

 may bring in ninety-nine cigars, forty packages of cigarettes, 

 and one and one-half pounds of snuff or chewing tobacco. 

 Professional men may bring in free the tools pertaining to 

 their professions. The custom house officials we found 

 polite and obliging, and in a very short time we were at 

 liberty to proceed on our journey. ^ 



Leaving our baggage at the Hotel Mexico, we called in 



