MOUNTAIN SCENERY, 105 



rising up in all their grandeur were the sister peaks. To 

 the left was Ixtaccihuatl, its outline clearly defined against 

 the sky, showing well the peculiar outlines which have 

 caused it to be termed La Mujer Blanco^ or the White 

 Woman. On the right rose Popocatepetl, a great white 

 dome. The effect of the sun's declining rays resting on the 

 snow, the massiveness of the mountains, the swift gather- 

 ing twilight and the tolling of the bells in the little chapel 

 on the Sacro Monte, made an impression upon us which 

 will never be effaced. I can conceive of no grander sight 

 on earth than that afforded by this mountain scenery, as 

 seen from this quaint town. 



Next morning, at seven o'clock, we started for the 

 volcano with five guides and carriers. The first part of 

 our way vound among softly undulating slopes, yellow 

 with barley, out of which projected here and there an 

 ancient pyramid, planted with a crop also. By the road- 

 side grew charming white thistles, and tall blue columbines. 

 We crossed numerous small brooks and gorges. The as- 

 pect soon changed to that of an Alpine pasture. Here 

 were grassy pastures, flowering mosses, and cattle feeding 

 Several small crosses were passed, indicating where some 

 poor wretch had met a violent death, either from robbers or 

 from some natural cause. Every few hundred feet we 

 took the altitude with our aneroid barometer, for we had 

 started out to take the altitude of this giant peak. Half 

 way to the summit we obtained a magnificent view of the 

 Mexican valley, looking down a wooded ravine. We soon 

 entered the deep, solemn pine-woods, crossed a long ridge 

 of land, and reached the Tlamacas ranch, 12,595 feet above 

 the sea, where we were to spend the night. 



The r^nch consisted of three sheds, situated in a little 

 opening in the forest, at the base of the peak. In one of the 

 sheds a cheerful fire was burning, and preparations being 



