$02 ARBORETUM AND FRUTICETUM. PART III. 
three cuttings at the commencement. (Gard. Mag., vol. vi. p. 428.) Plants 
raised in this manner flower almost immediately, and continue producing fresh 
blossoms throughout the whole summer: they are admirably calculated for 
being planted in groups in mixed flower-borders, and treated as herbaceous 
plants, as recommended p. 800. ; and, when #.i. odorata is used, a few patches 
of it will perfume an entire garden. 
By Budding. This is a very general mode of propagating the rose, and is 
almost always adopted when it 1s to be grown as a standard. Mr. Rivers is 
decidedly of opinion, that roses never bloom so finely as when budded ; and 
that the most proper and durable stock is R. canina, with its varieties ; while 
R. arvénsis is, perhaps, the worst. The operation of budding, in France, is 
performed at any time, from February to September ; but principally, as in 
England, during July and August. When performed in February, a portion 
of the wood is taken off along with the bud, and a cavity of the same shape 
is made in the stock to receive it; so that this mode of budding partakes 
much more of the nature of grafting than any of the other modes. 
The rose is also budded in April, by removing the bark only, in the same 
manner as in summer; and this is what the French call budding 4@ /’aei pous- 
sant (with the pushing eye) ; while the ordinary summer budding is called bud- 
ding a I’ il dormant (with the sleeping eye). For the mode of budding with 
a portion of the wood attached, mentioned above, we are not aware that the 
French have any specific name; but we shall take the liberty of calling it 
niche budding, or notch budding, and the other two kinds spring budding 
and summer budding. 
Niche Budding. The rose may be budded, in February or March, in the 
following manner: — To prepare the bud, a transverse cut is made into the 
wood, a little below an eye (fig. 538. a) ; which incision is met by a longer cut 
downwards, commencing at a 538 
short distance above the eye, b; 
care being taken that a portion of 
wood is removed with the bark, 
as shown at c. This bud, with a 
portion of wood attached, is in- 
serted in a niche in the stock, 
made as nearly as possible of the 
same size as that left in the scion Hn”) 
by the removal of the bud c, as shown at g. In placing the bud on the stock, 
the principal thing to be attended to is, to bring the horizontal ‘edges of the 
base of the niche in the stock, and those of the bud which is to fit into it, into 
the most perfect contact possible; because the union is produced, not, as in 
common summer budding, by the junction of the soft wood of the stock with 
the rudiment of the soft wood on the inside of the bark of the bud, but by the 
junction of soft wood with soft wood, as in common grafting. Dr. Van Mons 
recommends the cut, or niche, in the stock to be made where there is already 
a bud; making the horizontal cut through the base of the bud. (See Gard. 
Mag., vol. ii. p. 193.) 
Spring Budding. When the rose is to be budded in spring, Dr. Van Mons 
recommends the scions to be cut off before winter, and stuck into the ground 
till the moment in spring, generally about the end of April or the beginning 
of May, when the bark of the stock 539 
will separate freely from the wood : 
the operation of budding may then 
be performed in the usual manner, 
with the slight modifications, in re- 
spect to future treatment, given in 
the following directions by Van 
Mons. The bark of the stock, as 
early in spring as it will separate 
from. the wood, being cut. like an 
inverted T, as shown at d in fig. 539., the horizontal edges of this cut in the 



