CHAP. XLII. ROSA CEH, ROSA. 803 — 
stock, and of the shield of bark containing the bud, must be brought into the 
most perfect contact with each other, as at e ; and then bound with waterproof 
bast (f), without, however, applying grafting clay, or grafting wax. Eight 
days after the insertion of the bud, the stock is pruned down to the branch 
which is immediately above the opposite side; and this branch is stopped by 
being cut down to two or three eyes; all the side shoots are removed, and, 
in five or six weeks afterwards, when the bud has pushed its fifth leaf, the 
point of the shoot is pinched out, so as to compel the shoot to branch out ; 
and the branches thus produced will bear flowers in August or September. 
Summer Budding. This is almost the only mode of budding in general use, 
whether for the rose, or for any other tree or shrub, either in Britain or on 
the Continent. The most general method adopted, on the Continent, of per- 
forming it on the rose is that indicated by jig. 539., in which the two cuts in 
the bark form the letter T reversed, already detailed; whereas in England 
they form the letter T upright. Either mode may be adopted according to 
the season: in spring budding, the slit made in the form of a T reversed 
(thus, 1) is the best ; but in August, or summer, budding, the T slit ought to 
be made erect ; because the junction, at this season, takes place by the descent 
of the sap; whereas in spring it is effected chiefly by its ascent. Where the 
shoots produced from the stock are weak, the buds may be inserted in the main 
stem ; more especially if the stock is not very old, and the bark hard. Some- 
times, buds inserted even in August will push the same season ; more especially 
if the roots of the stock have been well supplied with water: but, whether they 
push, the first season or the next, the points of the shoots produced ought to 
be pinched off at three or four joints from the stock, in order to cause them to 
branch out; because, when only one long single shoot is produced from each 
bud, it is liable to be broken off close to the stock, by the wind. Budding 
early in the season succeeds best on young wood; and, during August and 
September, it succeeds best on old wood. Buds of the China rose and 
its varieties, put in in July, frequently flower the same season. Twelve 
different modes of budding will be found described, and illustrated by en- 
gravings, in the Gard. Mag., vol.ii. p, 191., and vol. x. p. 305.; and the 
various modes of propagating the rose by budding and grafting will be found 
explained, to those who have no practical knowledge of gardening, in the 
Gard. Mag.,vol. iv. p.381. Inthis article, the writer directs the buds to be 
put in from the beginning to the end of August, either in the old or young 
wood, as may be most convenient, watering the root well, in dry seasons, for 
several days previous to the performance of the operation, in order to 
assist the bark to rise. Budding with the dormant bud is, he says, practised 
in May; sometimes with common roses, but more frequently with China 
roses, Banksias, Noisettes, &c. In general, two buds are sufficient for any 
stock; and these should be of only one variety, as two sorts seldom grow 
with equal vigour; and, of course, the one soon robs and destroys the 
other. The bast ligature which confines the buds should be pretty tight ; and 
a laurel leaf may be slightly tied on with it, in such a way as to form an 
arch over the bud, to defend it from the sun and rain, both of which are as 
prejudicial as the air. The ligatures may be removed, in moist seasons, after 
a month; but, in hot weather, not for six weeks at least. The general sea- 
son for budding in England is the end of July, and the beginning of August ; 
but in France and Belgium, by watering the stocks, and the plants from 
which scions are to be taken, abundantly throughout the season, and by some 
variations in the mode of treatment according to the period of the year, the 
operation is performed from the beginning of June to the end of September. 
In budding in June, Dr. Van Mons first deprives the young shoots, from 
which he proposes to take buds, of their leaves; and, fifteen days afterwards, 
he finds the buds sufficiently swelled to allow their being taken off and 
inserted in the stocks. If the stock is allowed to have a leading shoot above 
the inserted bud, and this shoot is, not shortened, the bud inserted will 
probably not push for six weeks or two months; but if this shoot is 
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