898 ARBORETUM AND FRUTICETUM. PART III. 
the juice is strained through reed or straw mats, instead of hair cloths. 
Neither the apples, nor the pulp, are exposed to the open air; and, if any rain 
falls on the fruit while it is being gathered, it is considered unfit for use. The 
cider of Devonshire is sweet, but weak, and will not keep good many years. 
Another point of difference is, a clause generally inserted in the leases in Devon- 
shire, that no crops shall be grown under the trees in the apple orchards. The 
liquor is not racked off so soon as in Herefordshire; and, should the acetous 
fermentation have been allowed to come on, it is stopped, by adding a bottle 
of French brandy, half a gallon of cider brandy, or a pailful of sound old cider, 
and exposing the cask to a cooler air. (See Encyclopedia of Agriculture, 2d 
edit., p.4131.) 
In Ireland, a mixture of every sort of apple, wild as well as cultivated, 
is thought to make the best cider. “Owing to a considerable admixture 
of crabs, the Irish cider is always more sour than the English; and this is a 
uality, when not too predominant, for which it is valued by the natives. 
Gmaniiers Cyclopedia, Treatise on Domestic Economy.) 
In Scotland, cider has not hitherto been made ; but, as the climate, especially 
in all the low lands of the country, is drier and warmer than that of Ireland, 
and is consequently better adapted for ripening fruit, if apple trees were intro- 
duced into the hedgerows, in some places ; and, where this could not be done, 
if large orchards were planted adjoining the farm-houses, cider might be as 
common a beverage there as in England. 
In Normandy, cider was made before it was in England; and the art of 
making it is said to have been brought into that country from Spain; where, 
however, it is no longer practised. The Norman mode of making cider closely 
resembles that generally practised in Devonshire. The Normans gather their 
apples in dry weather, and keep them closely shut up in rooms, till ready 
for the press, in which they are crushed, or broken; and the juice is strained 
through a reed or bast mat. The Normans prefer sweet apples, or sweet and 
bitter apples mixed. The cider is sweet, like that of Devonshire; but, though 
heady, it has not much body. The strongest rarely keeps more than five or 
six years, and the inferior sorts are best drunk from the cask when quite new. 
Normandy is the only part of the Continent where cider is a staple article of 
commerce. 
In America, cider is almost a universal beverage in New England, and in 
the middle, and some of the western states. The fruit is suffered to remain on 
the tree till it is thoroughly ripe, and it is then gathered by hand; or, if the 
trees are shaken, great care is taken to cover the ground with coarse cloths 
or Russian mats, to prevent the apples from being bruised. When gathered, 
the apples are laid in heaps ina room, and kept carefully from the rain or 
dew. In grinding, care is taken to reduce “ the whole fruit, skin and seeds, to 
fine pulp, and to perform the operation in cool weather. The late Joseph 
Cooper of New Jersey has observed emphatically, that ‘the longer a cheese 
[that is, the mass of apple pulp] lies after being ground, before pressing, the 
better for the cider, provided it escapes fermentation until the pressing is 
completed.” (Kenrick’s American Orchardist, p.121.) In some cases, the 
pomace, or mass of pulp, is suffered to remain a week or ten days after it is 
ground, before it is submitted to the press (provided the weather be not too 
warm), stirring the mass every day. (/did.) 
Mode of preparing the Sweetmeat known in France by the Name of Raisiné 
composé. This is a very favourite sweetmeat with the Parisians; and it is 
made by boiling any given quantity of must, or new wine, till it is diminished 
one half, skimming it continually as fresh scum arises, and afterwards strain- 
ing the liquor: then take apples, pared and cut into quarters, and, putting them 
into the raisiné, let it simmer gently, stirring it continually with a long wooden 
spoon, till the apples become thoroughly amalgamated with the liquor, and the 
whole forms a species of marmalade, which is extremely agreeable to the taste. 
When prepared in the northern provinces, the raisiné, after the first boiling, 
skimming, and straining, should be set for 24 hours in a cool place, when a saline 
