CHAP. LXIX. ERICA‘CER. 1101 
sand pressed down very firm. After being well watered, the pot is then fit to 
reccive the cuttings.” Mr. M‘Nab prefers “ pit-sand for striking heath cut- 
tings in; the colour of which is of little importance, whether white, grey, 
or yellowish: it should, however, be as free as possible from earthy and 
irony matter. The length of the cuttings must depend on the habit of 
the species. Of some of the free-growing sorts, they may be about 1} in. 
long ; and from other sorts, that are of a more stinted growth, they may not 
exceed half an inch in length: in both cases, they should be taken from the 
plant at the part where the young shoot springs from the older wood. The 
leaves should be stripped off about half the length of the cutting, carefully, 
and so as not to wound the bark ; and the end should be cut clean across with 
a sharp knife or with scissors. The cutting is then fit to be inserted into the 
pot prepared for its reception. In all ordinary cases, pots of the size above 
mentioned will hold many different kinds of heaths. In extensive nursery 
collections, where great quantities of plants are wanted, one pot may be filled 
with cuttings of the same species, when such can be got in sufficient quan- 
tities ; but in private collections this is not necessary, for, in general, only a few 
plants of a sort are all that are required. When this is the case, the kinds 
selected to be put in the same pot should be as nearly of the same habit as 
can be estimated at the time: for example, supposing four pots are intended 
to be filled with cuttings, the following sorts may be selected for each pot : — 
First Pot. E'ctasis melastoma, Petivérii, Sebana, Plukenéti var. penicillata, &c. 
Second Pot. Syringddea pinea, pinifdlia, vestita, grandiflora, purpurea, &c. 
Third Pot. Callista ventricdsa, pre’gnans ; Syringddea Linnzana, linnzdides, coldrans, &c. 
Fourth Pot, Euryldma Aitonidna, jasminifidra, ampullacea, Irbydna, &c. 
Unless this, or some similar mode of selection, be attended to, one sort will 
be found to strike root in a much shorter time than others in the same pot, 
which will be inconvenient when potting them out... . When the pot is filled 
with the cuttings, it should be well watered with a watering-pot having a fine 
rose; and placed in a close shady part of the stove; admitting as little air 
as possible near to where the pots of cuttings are placed, and taking care to 
water them freely every day. Indeed, when treated as above directed, there is 
little risk of over-watering them; for, in consequence of their being well drained, 
the water is allowed to pass freely through; and, so far from injuring the cuttings, 
they are benefited by it.””, Mr. M‘Nab adds, that he is “ convinced that all Cape 
heaths will strike in this way, when good cuttings can be procured of them.” He 
very seldom uses bell-glasses for heath cuttings; nor does he “ consider them 
necessary for heaths in general. Some of them, however, which are more difficult 
to strike, such as Eurystégia (E.) glatica, Syringodea (Z.) atrea, Lamprotis 
(Z.) taxifolia, and a few other species, may be put under bell-glasses, and placed 
in the stove beside the others. Where no stove is at hand to put the pots of 
cuttings in, and where the situation in which they are to be placed has much 
air, then bell-glasses are absolutely necessary. The pots, in this case, should 
be prepared for the cuttings, which are to be covered with bell-glasses, in the 
same way as before recommended. The size of the pot must be regulated 
by the size of the glass which is intended to cover the cuttings. The glass, 
in this case, will require to be wiped occasionally, to prevent any damp from 
injuring the cuttings ; and, when they have struck root, the glass should be 
removed gradually, some time before the cuttings are potted out.”” Mr. M‘Nab 
believes “ that cuttings of heaths will strike root when put in at any season, 
if the cuttings are in a proper state; that is, when the young shoots are just 
old and firm enough to prevent them from damping off when first put 
in. Early in the spring, however,” he considers “ to be the best time for 
them; as the cuttings will then be rooted, and potted out, in sufficient time to 
get established in the pots before the following winter.... When the cut- 
tings are rooted, which will be easily known by their beginning to grow freely, 
they should be potted into the smallest-sized pots, and kept for ten days or 
a fortnight in a close shaded place; they may then be gradually exposed in 
a more airy part of the green-house, care being taken to shade them for a few 
