278 A Day in the Lower Sierra 
buildings formed a beautiful contrast to the deep blue of the 
Straits beyond. Across the water we could discern every feature 
of the wild rocky mountains of the Barbary coast from Ceuta to 
Tangier drawn in sharp purple masses of light and shade, whilst 
the bold headland of Cape Spartel stood up in strong relief against 
the shining waters of the Atlantic, which seemed from our elevated 
position to stretch westward until sea and sky merged. 
The owner of the ideally placed house I mentioned was a goat- 
herd of some importance, possessed of considerable flocks which 
found subsistence in the rocky hills of the sierra above. It would be 
difficult to imagine an instance of any man being in theory so near 
and yet practically so far removed from the influences of modern 
civilization. His only idea of civilization was the sleepy and decay- 
ing old town of Tarifa and to gain the only road leading thither 
he had to traverse some seven miles of a stony track, only passable 
in fine weather. And yet daily, and indeed almost hourly, at his 
very feet there passed huge vessels both of war and commerce 
representing the power and wealth of most civilized States—on 
their way through the Straits of Gibraltar. 
Postal service, telegraphs, newspapers and the like were all 
things for which he had no use; he was content to live thus isolated 
in the glorious climate and to advert with justifiable pride to the 
bella vista from his patzo, his one and only asset amid the supposed 
desiderata of modern houses. 
Had he ever had a visit from an Englishman before? Yes, 
once, one had come to look for silver in the sierra where I had 
been after the Vultures, altho’ God knows why silver should grow 
among rocks. However seeking silver was a thing a man could 
understand, but Vultures? and pictures of Vultures? what was 
the use of them? 
The Englishman had told him he possessed a hidden treasure 
or gold mine in his garden. But he had never returned. We bad 
