NOTE-BOOK OF A NATURALIST. 269 



basilic ; la ciiisson separe la chair des os. Lc bouillon passe au 

 travers d'une serviette, et clarilie avec des blancs d'ocufs ; faire 

 bouillir, reduire, ajouter dii vin de Madere ; la moitie d'une tete 

 de veau, echaudee de la veille, desossce, cuite dans un blanc, 

 coupee par petits morceaux ; dans le bouillon, vin de Madere ; 

 poivi'e de cayenne, de kari ; dans le potage, des morceaux de veau ; 

 jaunes d'a3ufs frais, durcis, a I'instant du service. 



Now for the Matures employees par Viard : — 



Tranches de bccuf, parure de veau, poule on parure de volaille, 

 moitie consomme et moitie blond de veau, carottes, oignons, cloux 

 de girofle, dans une marmite ; moitie de tete de veau, degorgee et 

 blanchie, coupee par petits morceaux dans une autre marmite, 

 petits piments enragees, macis de muscade, consomme, vin de 

 Madere, champignons, ris de veau en tres i)etits morceaux, cretes 

 de coqs, rognons, quenelles de volailles ; dans la soupiere, oeufs 

 poches et le potage dessus ; si le potage n'est pas assez corse ou 

 assez fort en piment, glace de volaille, bem-re de piment. 



Fire burn and caldron bubble ! 



Very good potage, no doubt — but no more like tortue 

 tlian I to Hercules; and, even for the mock-turtle here 

 presented, any one may safely back Birch of Cornhill 

 against the French artist. When Cuvier last visited this 

 country, and was feasted by some of our philosophers at 

 the Albion, nothing struck him so much as the tortue, 

 upon which his memory long dwelt ; and yet he had had 

 the opportunity of testing the abilities of the first cooks 

 of his own country. Soyer and other compatriots of his 

 may have shone since that time ; but formerly turtle 

 was eminently English. Nor is it of remote antiquity as 

 an English dish. Not much more than a hundred years 

 have passed since its general introduction, and for a long 

 time it was comparatively rare. But steam, which anni- 

 hilates both space and time to make epicures as well as 

 lovers happy, now brings a regular and rapid supply of 

 really ' fine lively turtle,' very different from the wasted 

 invalids which our West Indiamen of the olden time 

 landed after their lagging voyage. Bristol was famous 

 for it; and some years ago the Montague Tavern bore 



