MUSKMELON. 253 
Melon seeds are started in 2-inch or 3-inch pots, only 
one plant being allowed to growin each pot. The plants 
are transferred to 4-inch pots, and then to the benches. 
If the plants become stunted, they are worthless (page 
210). 
In benches 4 feet wide, the plants may be set 2% feet 
apart in two rows; or they may be set 18 inches apart in 
a single row. When only a single row is used, the row 
may be set near one side of the bench and a part of the 
wide side left unfilled; in this unfilled portion the soil is 
added at intervals, thus affording new forage as it may 
be needed. It is always well to set twice as many plants 
in the bed as will be needed, in order to insure against 
losses from accidents, damping-off, and the like (page 
209). 
The plants are headed-in as soon as they are estab- 
lished in their permanent quarters, in order to make them 
branch and to set them into fruit-bearing. Three or four 
main arms are trained out fan-shaped on a wire trellis, 
and each one is headed-in when 4 or 5 feet high. All 
blind and fine shoots must be kept off. Some growers 
allow the main stem to grow straight up, and take out 
side branches from it (page 211). 
The fruits hang free, and are supported in slings of 
soft broad cord, or in swings (Figs. 73,77, page 211). 
Melon flowers must be pollinated by hand. The first 
two or three pistillate flowers are not pollinated, for if 
one fruit is set much in advance of the other flowers it 
will absorb the attention of the vine, and it will be found 
to be very difficult to set other fruits (page 214). 
We have found good forcing varieties to be Blenheim 
Orange, Hero of Lockinge, Masterpiece, Sutton A 1, Im- 
perial, and Emerald Gem. There are numerous other 
acceptable varieties (page 215). 
An average of two good melons to a plant is a good 
crop in midwinter. In fall and spring, four and five fruits 
may be obtained (page 220). 
