22 
5 inch pots, and again stop the strongest 
shoots, tying them out horizontally whilst 
young, as the wood is naturally hard and 
does not bend well when it has attained 
much strength. After they have got 
established in the new soil, a greenhouse 
temperature a little closer than required 
by larger plants will be best, with 
shade from the full force of the sun, and 
dewing over with the syringe when shut 
up in the afternoon. Give more air in 
the autumn, and winter in a temperature 
of from 40° to 45°. In March, give pots 
3 inches larger, using the best fibrous peat, 
carefully broken with the hand, and 
rejecting all the small particles ; add about 
one-seventh of sand, and use the potting 
lath, so as to ensure that the soil is made 
thoroughly firm. After potting, place the 
plants where they can again be kept a 
little close ; shade when the sun is bright, 
and keep the surface they stand upon 
syringed two or three times daily, after 
which give more air, but never allow them 
to stand in a cold current. Close the 
house early, so as to shut in a little sun- 
heat; continue to syringe the stage all 
about the pots, as well as overhead, at the 
time of closing through the summer, which 
will greatly assist their growth. 
' Train out, so as to lay the ground-work 
for the future specimens, and bring the 
strongest shoots the lowest, which will 
balance their growth. The plant does not 
like much stopping, which should not be 
resorted to except in the case of shoots that 
are much the strongest. Training as de- 
scribed above will generally cause them to 
break back sufficiently to furnish the plant. 
Towards the end of August discontinue 
syringing, and do not close the house as 
heretofore. During the winter keep the 
plants somewhat drier at the roots, with a 
night temperature similar to that of last 
year. Towards March, if the roots are 
active, move into pots 3 inches larger, 
using soil similar to last season. The 
plants will flower in May, and, as soon as 
the blooms have decayed, remove them at 
once, for if they are allowed to seed growth 
will be much retarded. It requires con- 
siderable care in removing the flowers not 
to destroy the points of the shoots, which 
grow right through the flowers, as, if those 
tender points are injured, they will have 
to break from the joint below where it 
has flowered, and the wood is so hard that 
it does not break freely. Let the general 
treatment be like that of last season. 
Through the summer and following winter 
attend to tying and training as before, and 
as soon as the roots are in motion give pots 
3 or 4 inches larger, according to the 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
ACROSTICHUM. 
quantity of roots the plants have made, 
using, as before, the best peat, broken now 
a little larger. Treat generally as in the 
previous season. The plants will now be 
getting nice specimens, and may be ex- 
pected to bloom freely ; place them when in 
tlower where they will be well shaded from 
the full sun ; by this means their flower- 
ing will be prolonged. Each succeeding 
season attend to their potting, &c., as be- 
fore. For although, as mentioned at the 
commencement, the plant is a ticklish 
subject, sometimes it will go on for 
eight or ten years. 
We would also particularly direct atten- 
tion to close observation in the application 
of water. We feel convinced that the want 
of success with this, as well as many other 
plants, is attributable to a uniform system 
im the operation of watering. To any one 
who attentively considers this matter, it 
will appear obvious that a plant like the 
Acrophyllum, with a considerable amount 
of leaf surface, will necessarily lose a great 
deal more by evaporation than a plant 
with small hard leaves—such, for instance, 
as the Aphelexis. Consequently, it should 
receive water before the soil becomes so 
dry as in the case of the latter plant. By 
such treatment we have found it thrive well, 
and amply repay the attention bestowed 
upon it by yielding a profusion of its 
beautiful Spirzea-like flowers, which, if 
kept shaded from bright sun, will last 
three or four weeks. The plant is so re- 
markably distinct in both flower and foliage, 
also so much less formal in its general 
habit than other hard-wooded greenhouse 
plants, as to render it a most desirable 
addition to even the most select collection. 
Insects.—It is not subject to the attacks 
of any insect excepting scale, which must 
be carefully removed with a sponge, for 
although the leaves have a hard appear- 
ance they are extremely impatient of rough 
usage. We have seen a plant completely 
spoilt by the scale being removed from its 
leaves with a small brush made for the 
purpose, although used with care; in a 
few days after the leaves showed the mark 
of every bristle just as if they had been 
scratched witha pin. Very little injury 
causes the leaves to turn yellow and fall 
off, which much injures the plant; for any 
mutilation of the leaves has a_ greater 
effect upon the roots of the plant than any 
other with which we are acquainted. 
ACROSTICHUM. 
A genus of stove Ferns, few in number. 
They are mostly from the Eastern hemi- 
sphere, and distinct in appearance ; but 
