ADENANDRA. 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
23 
from the cultivator’s point of view are 
inferior to many. 
For propagation and cultivation, see 
Ferns, general details of culture. 
A. aureum. West Indies. 
A. flagelliferum. East Indies. 
ADELOBOTRYS LINDENII. 
A stove plant of secondary merit, that 
bears white and purple flowers in the 
spring or summer. 
It is a Melastomaceous species, requiring 
the same treatment in propagation and 
after-growth as Lasiandra macrantha, ex- 
cept that it does better with a little more 
warmth than the Lasiandra. <A native of 
Brazil. 
Insrects.—Red spider, scale, and mealy 
bug, will all live on the plant ; a constant 
use of the syringe through the growing 
season, with sponging, is the best means to 
keep these pests down. 
ADENANDRA. 
Adenandras are strong-rooted green- 
house plants, much more so than the 
generality of hard-wooded kinds that are 
also natives of the Cape, or such as are in- 
digenous to New Holland. Consequently 
they are not so delicate as the finer-rooted 
plants, neither are they so liable to in- 
jury from being used for conservatory deco- 
ration, asis the case with such as are 
naturally less vigorous in constitution. 
Adenandras are easily propagated from 
enttings of the young half-ripened shoots, 
such as the plants produce after flowering; 
these should be in right condition about 
the middle of summer. Put the cuttings 
an inch apart in pots filled with sand, 
covered with a propagating glass; keep 
them moist, warm, and shaded. When 
they are rooted move singly into small 
pots, using peaty soil. Pinch out the 
points as soon as the little plants begin to 
grow freely ; keep them near the glass 
through the autumn and winter in a tem- 
erature of 45°, or a little over; about 
arch move them into 4-inch pots, 
using soil as before. In midsummer again 
pinch out the points of the shoots, and 
subject them to ordinary greenhouse 
treatment ; if full of roots in July move 
them into pots two inches larger. En- 
courage growth and winter in a tempera- 
ture such as the general young stock 
of hard-wooded plants require—from 40° 
to 45° at night is about the range that 
suits most species best while in a young 
state. So treated their roots will be early 
in action, and admit of their being potted 
by the middle of March. Some growers 
use loam for Adenandras, others prefer 
peat ; the latter we consider more in ac- 
cordance with the requirements of the 
plants, as they will last and keep in good 
condition longer in it than in loam. We 
have also found them grow quicker in peat, 
which should be of a good fibrous nature; 
but if a little harder for these plants than 
is required for some, it will be all the 
better. Break it, as usual for young stock, 
about the size of acorns, and add one- 
seventh sand, which mix thoroughly with 
the peat. Give them a 3-inch shift ; drain 
well. This is the more necessary, as when 
in full growth they require more water 
than some others. Nip out the points of 
all the shoots at the time of potting, so as 
to induce them to break freely ; place in 
a house where they can for a few weeks be 
kept a little closer, standing them on the 
usual bed of damp, moisture-holding, fine 
ashes. This will prolong the time during 
which they will not require water after 
the shift, and enable the roots to take to 
the new soil. Do not allow them to be- 
come too dry, so as to flag at all, or their 
leaves, which are more ample than those 
of many plants of similar nature, will 
most likely suffer. Shade slightly for two 
or three weeks, and tie the strongest shoots 
well out, bringing them right down to the 
rim of the pot. It is necessary to see to 
this early, as these plants are disposed to 
an upright habit of growth, and if the 
most vigorous branches are not brought - 
down sufficiently low from the first, they 
not only become too stiff to bend freely, 
but the weaker shoots are not able to get 
on more equal terms with the strong—a 
necessary condition in hard-wooded plant 
growing that should never be lost sight of. 
Adenandras are fairly even growers, and do 
not usually require any stopping or train- 
ing through the season after this spring 
tying; but if any of the shoots have a 
tendency through the summer to outgrow 
the others, despite the tying down, they 
may be shortened back a little so as to 
equalise their growth. 
As the spring advances give more air, 
syringe the plants freely every afternoon, 
close the house early, and damp the material 
on which they stand in the mornings, 
which will assist them through the hottest 
weather. Shade slightly during the middle 
of the day. By the end of June their roots 
will have taken complete possession of the 
new soil, and will require more room. 
Move them on into pots 3 inches larger, 
using soil in every respect similar to that 
into which they were removed at the 
earlier shift. Give extra shade for a few 
