26 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
AACHMEA, 
not in accordance with their wants in the 
above respect. Still, no mistake can be 
made in growing all the under-mentioned 
in peat as full of decayed fern roots and 
-other vegetable fibre as can be got, and it 
will be advisable to add a seventh part of 
charcoal, or crocks broken about the size 
of horse beans; to this put a moderate 
quantity of sand, and mix the whole well 
together. In this soil they will not only 
make roots freely, but the roots will live 
much longer—a circumstance that has a 
deal to do with the number of suckers the 
plants are able to throw up after flowering, 
and on which in a great measure depends 
the rate of increase in things of this nature 
that are slow to propagate. 
The'several species form from the base 
of the full-grown plants, about or after 
the time of blooming, suckers like most 
Bromeliads. These should be allowed to 
remain upon the old plants until they have 
attained a considerable size—say one-fourth 
that of the crowns from which they spring. 
It is important to leave them attached to 
the parent plant until they have got 
something like the above size, as, if 
removed too young, they are long in mak- 
ing much progress. When thus allowed 
to attain a fair size before being taken off, 
they will generally be found to have a 
number of roots just breaking round the 
base. The suckers will usually be in a 
condition to take off in the autumn. Slip 
them off with the fingers, and be careful 
not to injure these incipient roots ; they 
may also be taken off with the help of a 
sharp knife. In this condition they will 
root into the soil immediately. Put them 
singly in from 3 in. to 6 in. pots, according 
to the size of the suckers ; drain the pots 
well, and for this first potting sift the soil, 
forcing all the fibrous portion through the 
sieve, and add more sand (about one-fifth) 
than will be required when the plants get 
larger ; give a moderate watering at the time 
they are put in, and place them at the 
warmest end of the stove, in a temperature 
of 65° or 70°. Ifa little bottom heat is at 
hand, it will assist the formation of roots ; 
but do not cover them with a propagating 
glass, as the hard close texture of the leaves 
is of a nature that allows little loss by 
evaporation, consequently they do not flag 
when exposed in the atmosphere of the 
stove, as would be the case with ordinary 
cuttings of most things. Kinds, such as 
AK. fulgens, that form a few inches of stem 
below the point where the leaves are 
emitted, simply require inserting in the 
soil up to the base of the leaves ; in the 
case of species that do not make any length 
of stem, it will be necessary to strip off a 
few of the bottom leaves before putting 
them in. Keep them through the winter 
in a night temperature of 60°, with 5° 
higher in the day, place them in a light 
position, and let the soil be moderately 
moist. 
By the beginning of March, as the days 
get longer, raise the temperature 5° during 
the night, and 10° during the day ; about 
the end of the month move them into 
pots one or two inches larger, according to 
the size of the plants, using the soil ina 
rougher state, and adding crocks or char- 
coal, as already advised. The pots must 
be well drained, and must not be used too 
large, as the whole of the different species 
do not like too much root-room. When 
the sun gets more powerful, shade will 
be required in the middle of the day. By 
the beginning of May the temperature 
should be increased to 70° in the night, and 
proportionately higher by day, giving air in 
good time, but closing early in the after- 
noons. <A slight syringing at the time of 
shutting up will assist growth. Continue 
this treatment through the summer 
months, always keeping the soil mode- 
rately moist, as, if allowed to become dry 
at any time, the plants will be injured. 
At the end of August dispense with shading 
and give more air; as the autumn advances 
reduce the temperature down to the point 
recommended for the season previous, and 
winter similarly. As the days again 
lengthenincrease the temperature, and move 
them into pots two inches larger, using the 
soilin a more lumpy state. Treat as in 
the preceding growing season as to heat, 
shade, and moisture. In the course of the 
summer the plants will push up their 
flowers, and as they open may, if required, 
be placed in a warm conservatory, but 
must not be set where they will be subject 
to a current of air, neither must they be 
exposed to the sun. When done blooming 
move them back to the stove, and treat as 
before. Suckers will now be formed, and 
when large enough should be taken off 
and treated generally as already advised. 
The old plants should be kept, and, if well 
cared for, will through the spring push up 
more suckers, which can, when they have 
attained sufficient size, be taken off and 
struck as recommended for those first. 
produced. 
The following species, though differing 
much in size and general appearance, will 
all succeed under similar treatment; of 
course proportioning the size of the pots. 
in which they are grown to that which 
the different kinds naturally attain. 
4G. fulgens. Bears bright red, erect 
flower spikes, that have the appearance of 
