AGAPANTHUS. 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
29 
that without injuriously shading the other 
occupants. Such a position, too, appears 
to suit it well, and favours the free pro- 
duction of bloom. Like most other plants, 
the time of its flowering is considerably 
influenced by the course of treatment to 
which it is subjected, but it is generally 
in perfection during the later months of 
the year, a time when its scarlet or bright 
red flowers are very effective. They are 
comparatively large for the size of the 
plant, and when well grown are produced 
freely. Being of a creeping habit the 
stems cling closely to any surface on which 
it is grown—not unlike the way in which 
the rhizomes of some Ferns, such as the 
weaker growing Davyallias, attach them- 
selves. The leaves, which are borne on 
short stalks, are ovate in shape. It may 
be cultivated in a pot, but, as it is a true 
epiphyte, it does best on a block of wood 
—in this way it can be better hung up, 
and as we have comparatively few subjects 
of a similar character and so suitable for 
the purpose, it is well to utilise it in this 
manner. Its flowers in such a position 
are also seen to the best advantage. 
To commence, procure a rustic-looking 
piece of dry Oak wood about 6 inches 
wide, a foot long, and 2 inches in thick- 
ness; if charred it will look none the 
worse and will last longer—a considera- 
tion in the case’of such plants as this, that 
have clinging roots that adhere tightly to 
whatever they fasten upon, and cannot be 
removed without injury. Fix a copper 
wire by means of copper nails to each end 
of the block to hang it up by. Cuta piece 
of good fibrous Orchid peat about an inch 
thick and the same size as the block, shake 
as much of the earthy matter from it as 
can be done without breaking it, fasten it 
on the upper surface of the block with fine 
copper wire, and shake a handful of silver- 
sand over the peat (this will help to keep it 
from getting sour). Then take a plant that 
has been grown in a pot, or cut several of the 
creeping stems with several leaves to each, 
and tie with wire or bast on the surface 
of the peat. Give water immediately, and 
shade until the roots have got hold. These 
operations should be carried out in March 
before growth has commenced. All through 
the growing season the roots must be kept 
moist, and even in winter they must never 
be allowed to get too dry. During spring 
and summer the night temperature should 
range from 65° to 70°, and from 80° to 85° 
in the daytime. In winter it will do at 
60° in the night, and a few degrees higher 
by day. The shoots require little training, 
simply bending about in such a way as to 
cover the block. As soon as the flowers 
make their appearance, do not allow more 
water to lodge upon them than can be 
avoided. It is a heat-loving subject, and 
neither when in bloom nor at any other 
time should it be submitted to a low 
temperature or cold draughts. 
Insects.—With us the plant was never 
at any time attacked by insects. 
AGAPANTHUS. 
The only assignable reason why these 
elegant-habited greenhouse plants are not 
now so generally cultivated is that they 
are old-fashioned. They are amongst the 
easiest of plants to manage, bearing with- 
out injury usage that would kill most of 
the species subjected to pot culture. Their 
gracefully-curved leaves, which in a well 
managed specimen droop so as to all but 
hide the pot, render them at all times 
pleasing to look upon, and when, in ad- 
dition, they are furnished with their 
straight erect flower-stems, surmounted by 
dense umbels of blue or white flowers, 
there are few more telling plants. In ad- 
dition to this they last a considerable time 
in bloom. The flowers moreover are 
amongst the most useful for cutting, either 
combined with others for ordinary decora- 
tive purposes, or for bouquets; and for the 
latter use the blue kinds afford a colour that 
is not over-plentiful in flowers that are of 
suitable form and of a durable nature. 
Agapanthus may be raised from seed,, 
but, except in the case of a new, or scarce 
kind, the usual course is to increase them 
by division of the crowns. This can best 
be done by taking a large plant in the 
spring just as growth is about to com- 
mence and washing all the soil from 
among the roots, so as to get them disen- 
tangled as far as possible without unneces- 
sary breakage; then divide the crowns 
singly, or in masses of several together, ac- 
cording to the number and size of the 
plants required. Where there is no ob- 
ject in adding greatly to their number, 
large specimens may be simply divided 
into two or four as may be required, with 
these, as with the single crowns, giving 
pots according to the size of the divided 
pieces, potting firm and encouraging 
growth by keeping them a little close in a 
pit or greenhouse. All that is required 
afterwards is to give pot-room as wanted ; 
but it must be kept in mind that these 
plants will bear confining at the roots to 
an extent that few will without suffering. 
When the specimens are as large as re- 
quired, and are in from 12 to 16 in. pots, 
they may go for two or three years with- 
out re-potting. 
