80 
Greenhouse und Stove Plants. 
BOUVARDIA, 
enough to flower well in the autumn and 
winter, it is necessary to begin in the last 
months of the year previous, say about the 
middle of October. Then select a few plants 
of the different sorts grown, these place 
where an ordinary greenhouse temperature 
is kept up of about 40°; give no water to 
them, but allow the leaves and soft tops of 
the shoots to flag freely. When most of 
the leaves have shrivelled up, removeall the 
soft immature points of the shoots, cutting 
them back into the hard wood ; moisten 
the soil well and place them in a tempera- 
ture of about 60° in the night, with a 
proportionate rise in the day. Here they 
will break freely from most of the joints, 
and when the young shoots have grown to 
a length of about two inches they must be 
taken off at the base, whence they have 
sprung from the mature wood. Insert 
them closely in 5 or 6 inch pots, in sand, 
in the way Fuchsia cuttings are treated, 
and put them in a temperature of 65° or 
70°, where, kept close and moist, they will 
root in a few weeks. Then move them 
singly into small pots, filled with a mix- 
ture of sifted loam, three-parts to one of 
leaf-mould and a little rotten manure, with 
sand as required. Keep them at a tempera- 
ture similar to that in which they have 
been struck ; as soon as they begin to grow 
give them plenty of light to prevent their 
being drawn, and when they have made an 
inch or so of growth, pinch out the points of 
the shoots. Keep the soil fairly moist 
and they will move freely; in a few 
weeks, say by the end of March, they will 
require stopping again. It is necessary to 
attend to this pinching out of the points, 
otherwise the plants will not be furnished 
with enough shoots low down so as to make 
them bushy, as they should be to look well. 
They will bear keeping up to 65° or 70° in 
the night by the end of April, and_ 10° 
higher in the day with sun-heat. They 
will require a thin shade when the days 
are bright, but must be stood near the 
glass where they will get plenty of light. 
If not, kept thus warm the growth will be 
weak and spindly. By the end of May 
move them into the pots in which they are 
to be grown in and flowered, and again 
pinch out the extremities of the shoots. 
As soon as they begin to move freely, give 
more air, keeping the roots well moistened, 
and still shading as far as found requisite. 
From the beginning of April all through 
the growing season they should be syringed 
every afternoon. In July each of the 
principal shoots should be tied out to a 
thin stick, which will give the necessary 
support ; any that show bloom during the 
next five or six weeks (unless flowers are 
wanted early) should have them pinched 
out or they will come in too soon. Give 
plenty of air through August and Septem- 
ber, and up to the middle of September, if 
the plants have attained size enough, they 
may with advantage occupy a pit where 
the lights can be taken off in the daytime ; 
this will strengthen them much. They 
will set flowers freely, which will open in 
October with no more heat than requisite 
to prevent their being too cold in the 
nights or when the weather is chilly in 
the day ; but after this time, if the flowers 
are expected to come up to their full size, 
and the white kinds pure in colour, they 
should have heat, increased as the external 
temperature lowers. 
The most successful growers keep the 
plants they want for blooming about 
Christmas, and during the three following 
months in a brisk stove heat ; but under 
such conditions they must be close up to 
the roof glass in a light house or pit. It 
is necessary to regulate the supply of 
flowers by keeping some of the stock 
cooler, so as to be brought on at two or 
three intervals in succession. When well 
managed the pots get full of roots, and it 
will much benefit the plants if supplied 
once or twice a week with manure-water 
during the time they are being brought into 
flower. By this means they will continue 
to throw up strong successional flowers for 
a couple of months at least. 
In place of growing them through the 
summer in pots as already described, it is 
a good plan, where there happens tobe a low 
light pit at liberty where they will be well 
up to the glass, to plant them out about 
the time that has been advised for their 
final potting. When so treated, they should 
be put in, 15 inches apart, in good soil, 
and with the requisite attention they will 
attain double the size that they do in pots, 
and give proportionately more flowers. 
Where this course is followed, they should 
be taken up about the middle of September 
with good balls, put in 8 or 9 inch pots, and 
kept a little close for two or three weeks ; 
in this way they make very strong shoots, 
which bloom profusely, and keep on in 
succession longer than pot-grown plants. 
In spring such of the old plants as may be 
required for a second season should be cut 
close in, as soon as they have broken into 
growth shaken out and re-potted in new 
soil, and treated through the summer as 
advised for the young stock. More root- 
room, however, should be given, and so 
managed, and well attended to, they make 
larger plants that flower abundantly. 
In this way, being annually cut back, 
they may be grown to a large size, 
