CAMELLIA. 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
89 
Though Camellias strike readily from 
cuttings made of the half-ripened shoots, the 
more usualandalso more satisfactory method 
of increase is by grafting in some of the 
ordinary ways on the free-growing single 
-kinds; but this work, also, will be 
generally better left to those who make 
the propagation of this and kindred subjects 
their business. In the selection of young 
stock to grow on, there are two thinys to 
be kept in view—first that the plants should 
be in a free vigorous state, not pot-bound, 
and that they should be of the right shape. 
Quantities of the young plants sold are 
wanting in the latter requirement. They 
usually consist of a single shoot, inserted 
in the stock some 6inches above the 
collar, and allowed to grow on with a 
leading stem; from this, at 10 or 12 inches 
above the pot, proceed several weaker 
shoots, which seldom get a chance of 
attaining their wonted strength through 
the leading shoot being allowed to run 
away with more than its share of sap ; and 
the result is that in after years these side 
branches die off, and leave the plants 
naked and bare at the bottom. If the 
leader had been stopped at the proper 
time so as to induce the production of 
three or four shoots of equal strength, and 
these in their turn had been again timely 
shortened to cause them to break back, the 
foundation for a well-shaped specimen in 
the future would have been laid. Half 
the Camellias we meet with are spoilt in 
the early stages of their existence for want 
of sufficient use of the knife. Camellias 
are naturally of a bushy habit, and for 
general purposes are much best grown in 
bush form. 
Young plants procured early in the 
spring, just before they begin to grow, 
may at once be placed in a night tempera- 
ture of 55°, and the heat may be allowed 
to rise 10° or 15° in the day-time. Keep 
the soil well moistened, and syringe over- 
head once or twice -a-day, as Camellias 
require to be kept, especially during the 
growing season, moist at the roots and in a 
humid atmosphere. Previous to the com- 
mencement of growth the branches should 
be tied out, so as to admit light to the 
centre of the plants, and to give them the 
required shape; but in this training the 
shoots must not be bent down to a hori- 
zontal position as advised with most hard- 
wooded subjects. If this is done the effect 
will be to stop the points of the branches 
from extending further, and to cause them 
to break back in a way neither requisite 
nor desirable. Any branch that is stronger 
than the others, it will be well to tie down 
a little lower; thus the others will be 
strengthened, and when growth has fairly 
commenced any shoots that show a disposi- 
tion to take an undue lead should be 
pinched. out. This is much better than 
letting them grow on to the end of the 
season, and afterwards cutting them back, 
as the latter plan causes a waste of strength, 
as well as a sacrifice of time in getting the 
plants up to a useful size. 
During the growing season they will 
need a thin shade to protect them from 
the direct influence of the sun; but never- 
theless they must have plenty of light, and 
not be stood too close together. To over- 
shading and overcrowding through the 
growing season may be attributed the 
unsatisfactory condition in which these 
plants are often found. Give a moderate 
amount of air in the early part of the day, 
and shut up soon enough to secure, by the 
help of the sun, a warm, close atmosphere 
in the evening. When the shoots have 
ceased to extend further, the flower-buds 
will form in the points. As soon as these 
are- fairly distinguishable pot such as re- 
quire it; for although Camellias are plants 
that do not need or will not bear so much 
root-room as many things, they must not 
be allowed to get pot-bound. If the plants 
are in 6 or 8 inch pots, a 2-inch shift will 
be enough. They will thrive in either 
loam or peat; the latter induces more 
luxuriant foliage, with a greater disposi- 
tion to growth, but good turfy loam is 
preferable, as it does not so soon get ex- 
hausted, and the plants usually flower 
freer init. The turf, cut about 24 inches 
thick, should be stacked sufficiently long 
before use, but not longer than necessary 
to allow of the roots of the grass dying, for 
if these are further decomposed the plants 
do not grow so freely in it, and the soil is 
more liable to get into an adhesive state 
before it is fully occupied by the roots. 
The turf should be broken by hand, into 
pieces about the size of small walnuts for 
young stock, and larger for such as are 
older; add sand in proportion to the more 
or less sandy nature of the loam, bearing 
in mind that they should never need shak- 
ing out, or the removal of any considerable 
portion of the soil ; therefore enough sand 
should be mixed with it to ensure continued 
porosity. 
Before moving the plants from the pots 
they occupy, see that the balls are quite 
moist. Ifin good condition the roots will 
be closely interlaced round the ball, often 
enveloping the drainage material, which 
should be removed completely ; disentangle 
a portion of the outside roots, so far as can 
be done without much breakage—they are 
very brittle ; drain well with clean crocks, 
