CAMELLIA. 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
91 
Though they may be kept in a temperature 
such as existed whilst the growth was 
being made, even until the flowers expand 
if such be desirable, their removal from 
the influence of such heat appears to in- 
duce a slower condition of flower develop- 
ment that will bear little attempt at 
acceleration. Camellias look well trained 
over a back wall in a greenhouse or cool 
conservatory, either grown in pots, tubs, or 
planted out. In the last way they increase 
in size more rapidly, as they do, also, when 
planted out in a well-prepared bed in the 
body of the house. So treated, they thrive 
in a way that cannot be equalled by pot or 
tub culture ; but when they are to be 
grown in this manner they should not be 
planted out in a very small state, as the 
limited quantity of roots they possess are 
not able to take hold of the large body of 
soil before it gets into asodden state. The 
principal objection to planting a collection 
of Camellias out is, that the system does 
not admit of a portion of the stock being 
removed to cooler quarters after the buds 
are set, so as to retard their flowering and 
thus afford a longer succession, or of 
starting some later with the same object ; 
neither can the plants be so readily washed 
with any insecticide for the destruction of 
insects. 
When Camellias that have attained a 
moderate or considerable size happen to 
get into a stunted condition, with an in- 
sufficiency of branches and foliage, there is 
no method equal to planting out for re- 
storing them to health. Where this has to 
be done, a bed of good turfy loam or peat, 
if the plants are much enfeebled, should be 
prepared, with enough sand added to 
ensure porosity. It should be made at 
least 6 inches deeper than the depth of the 
balls of the plants, and the bottom well 
and carefully drained ; into this they 
should be turned out, either in spring 
before growth commences, or, better, after 
the growth is fully completed, but in the 
case of plants in the state under considera- 
tion the later time of moving is not of so 
much importance. To prevent any,possi- 
bility of the balls getting dry it will be 
well to puncture them freely from the 
surface to the bottom with a stout iron 
wire in the form of a skewer. With the 
same view also the soil surrounding the 
ball must be well-rammed, and made an 
inch or so higher than the surface of the 
ball, so as to force the water given through 
it. After the first season, when the roots 
have extended, the soil thus raised may be 
levelled down. Camellias so treated 
generally break out quantities of young 
shoots from the old wood, and in a few 
years get dense and full of growth, when, 
if desired, they may be taken up and re- 
placed in pots or boxes. This should be 
done as soon as the buds are set, keeping 
the plants close for some weeks. If the 
operation is carefully carried out, and they 
are afterwards fairly treated, they will 
generally flower freely the ensuing winter 
and spring. 
When Camellias get into a straggling, 
naked condition it is frequently desirable 
to cut them right back to the strong 
branches, or to head down so far, removing 
the top altogether to within 8 or 9 inches 
above where grafted. The union with the 
stock is usually easily to be seen, and, 
although no eyes on the stem are per- 
ceptible, it will break into growth at every 
place where there was a leaf during the 
earliest existence of the scion ; but heading 
down, or even cutting back to any extent, 
should never be attempted unless the plants 
are fairly stocked with healthy roots, as 
death will most likely be the result. The 
operation ought to be carried out in the 
spring, a month or so before the wood-buds 
have begun to swell ; if deferred later, the 
stools generally bleed to an injurious ex- 
tent. When headed down they should be 
placed in a gentle heat and the soil kept 
slightly moist, but not wet. A little more 
water may be given when broken fairly. 
Keep during the summer in a growing 
temperature, with a moderately humid 
atmosphere. They usually make long, 
vigorous growth, which will need stopping 
and slightly tying out so as to make them 
shapely. 
The after treatment required will be of 
a similar nature to the ordinary stock. 
There is some difference of opinion 
amongst growers of Camellias as to the 
use of manure-water. We have tried 
liquid stimulants of different kinds, and 
have found them decidedly beneficial (es- 
pecially to plants that are rather deficient in 
pot-room), when given just beforeand during 
the season of their making growth, but at 
no other time. Liquid from stable manure 
with a little soot added will well answer 
the purpose. 
The following is a list of the best kinds, 
old and new :— 
C. alba plena (double white). Still un- 
surpassed for all properties. 
C. Archduchesse Marie. Red, banded 
with white, imbricated; flowers very 
double. 
C. Bealii. Very deep crimson. One of 
the best; flowers late in spring. 
C. Bonomiana. White, banded with deep 
red. 
C. candidissima. Medium-sized flower 
