CEPHALOTUS. 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
a 
it is one of the most distinct and beautiful 
of all quick-growing autumn bloomers. 
There are a few other species of Centro- 
pogon, but this will be found the most 
desirable. 
Its propagation and after treatment are 
similar to that advised for Eranthemums, 
which see. 
Insecrs.—Aphides are the only insects 
that much affect this plant ; for these fumi- 
gate. 
CENTROSOLENIA. 
Herbaceous stove Gesnerads of secondary 
merit. 
Their propagation and after treatment 
is similar to that advised for Columneas, 
which see. 
The following are the most effective 
kinds :— 
C. bractescens. 
Venezuela. 
C. bullata. Flowers yellow. <A native of 
Peru. 
Flowers white. From 
CEPHALOTUS FOLLICULARIS. 
(The New Holland Pitcher Plant.) 
A compact, small-growing, warm green- 
house plant that only attains a height 
of a few inches, but which is one of the 
most singular in cultivation. Unlike the 
Nepenthes and Sarracenias, the extremities 
of whose leaves, or the leaf entire, form 
pitchers, Cephalotus produces pitchers 
from the main stem of the plant indepen- 
dent of the leaves. They are borne on 
stalks from one, to two, or two and a half 
inches long, according to the strength of 
the plant. When strong, and not grown 
too hot and confined, the pitchers with 
their curious lids, assume a dark mahogany 
colour, contrasting in a striking manner 
with the pale green of the leaves. Cepha- 
lotus is often grown in stove heat, which 
for a time it bears if kept close to the glass, 
but usually the plants are short-lived under 
conditions that excite undue growth. At 
the same time it will generally be found 
better to keep the plants, until they have 
got fairly strong, in an intermediate heat, 
such, for instance, as that of a house where 
Mexican Orchids are grown. It produces 
suckers freely when strong, and is propa- 
gated from these. In spring they should 
be detached from the stem with the small 
roots that in most cases they will have 
made, and placed singly in the smallest 
thumb pots. The material in which the 
plant does best is fibrous peat broken small, 
and sphagnum chopped fine in about equal 
parts, with a good sprinkling of broken 
charcoal and sand ; press the soil firm in 
the pots round the base of the suckers, and 
give a little water. At once cover close 
with a propagating glass, and keep them 
until rooted in a moderate stove heat, 
shaded from the sun, but not too much 
darkened. In a month or two the little 
plants will begin to root freely, and make 
leaves, after which stand them nearer the 
glass so as to get more light, and prop 
the bell-glasses up a little at one side to 
admit a little air. Keep the material well 
moistened. A thin shade will be requisite 
in bright weather through the spring and 
summer. Winter in an intermediate tem- 
perature, and keep the soil always moist. 
In spring move into pots a size or two 
larger, and use the same description of 
soil. As the weather gets warmer keep in 
a night temperature of about 55°, with 5° 
or 10° more in the day during summer. 
Winter as before; again in spring give 
pots about an inch larger, and now plunge 
the pots in which the plants are growing 
in others two or three sizes bigger, filled 
with sphagnum, pressed hard so that the 
bell-glass covering each plant can rest on 
it. This material should always be kept 
quite damp, and in this way it will preserve 
a uniform moist condition of the material 
in which the roots are placed, as well as 
contributing to moisten the atmosphere 
surrounding the leaves. Syringe overhead 
once or twice a week in the growing season. © 
As the plants increase in size and strength 
tilt the glasses still further so as to admit 
more air. If they are stood close to the 
glass at the end of the house where the air 
is not disturbed the glasses may be dis-. 
pensed with altogether when the plants 
get strong ; in this way the pitchers are 
usually higher coloured. However, their 
bearing exposure in this manner depends 
on the condition of the house as to atmos- 
pheric moisture and the amount of air 
given; if kept dry and very airy the 
glasses may be required. The plants hav- 
ing now got strong, they may, after the 
expiration of the following winter, be 
grown in a warm greenhouse, where they 
are generally less liable to get out of con- 
dition than if kept continually in much 
heat. If all goes well they will keep on 
increasing in size for several years, freely 
producing offshoots, a portion of which 
can be taken off and treated as above 
advised. 
Insects. — Greenfly is very partial to 
this plant, getting on the undersides of the 
leaves, and very quickly causing their de- 
struction, and that of the plants altogether, 
if not eradicated in time. Examine the 
