104 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
CHRYSANTHEMUM, | 
strong grower, with long racemes of par- 
ticularly bright yellow and red flowers, 
produced freely and lasting for a long time 
in beauty. One of the best. 
C. vurium nanum. A much more com- 
pact-habited plant, requiring little stopping 
to ensure a sufficiently compact growth. 
It has fine, glossy, Holly-like leaves, larger 
than most of the other varieties. A pro- 
fuse flowerer, and altogether a very desir- 
able plant. 
Iysects.—So far as we have been able 
to observe they possess a complete im- 
munity from mildew, otherwise they would 
be ill able to bear the continued use of the 
syringe through the whole of the growing 
season, which is an absolute necessity to 
keep down red spider. To this latter they 
are more than ordinarily subject, and if 
allowed to get ahead upon them, it will 
quickly cause quantities of their leaves to 
fall, after which they seldom do much 
good. This pest is not confined to the 
under surface of the leaves of these Choro- 
zemas, as in the case of the majority of 
plants affected by it, but establishes itself 
equally on the upper portion, necessitating 
a thorough application of water to every 
part of the plants. In addition they 
should be frequently examined through 
the growing season, and if found affected 
with the insect should be at once washed 
with a weak solution of insecticide ; after- 
wards continue the use of the syringe with 
clean water. If brown scale happens to 
get established upon them, the best plan 
is to cut back all soft growth, and wash 
with insecticide, which should be used 
strong enough to kill the insects ; repeat 
the dressing in eight or ten days, before 
the plants have pushed any fresh growth. 
Greenfly will sometimes establish itself on 
the points of the shoots ; fumigating is the 
best remedy, the plants, from their hard 
foliage, standing it sufficiently strong to 
destroy the insects. 
CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
The Chinese and the Japanese Chry- 
santhemums are too well known to require 
describing, and we need only point to their 
beauty and extreme usefulness, thriving as 
they do freely with ordinary attention, and 
blooming profusely during the last months 
of the year, when there is comparatively 
little in the way of flowers to enliven our 
plant-houses. In more recent years the 
Japanese varieties, with their elegant 
tasseled flowers, have come much into 
favour, and are likely to-continue so, as 
they are devoid of the somewhat ball-lke 
formality which the ordinary large-flowered 
kinds possess. Chrysanthemums are among 
the easiest to grow of all flowering plants 
subjected to pot culture, yet they are not 
always seen so well managed as they should 
be. There are few plants that require such 
liberal feeding, and it is more to the ab- 
sence of a sufficient supply early enough 
in the summer than to any other cause 
that the unsatisfactory condition they are 
often seen in is attributable. They strike 
readily from cuttings made of the young 
shoots that are produced freely at the base 
of the plants ; they may be struck either 
in the latter months of the year or towards 
spring. In most cases the earlier period 
will be found best; about N oven bor select, 
stout shoots that have not been drawn 
up weakly through the plants being too 
much crowded. Put them singly in small 
pots, or several together in larger ones, 
three parts filled with fine loam, sand, and 
a little leaf-mould, with a layer of sand on 
the top; stand the cuttings on a moist 
bottom in a cool house or pit that can be: 
kept at a greenhouse temperature, cover 
with a propagating glass and keep moist. 
Here they will root in the course of six 
weeks without the tops being at all drawn 
in the way that is unavoidable when they 
are subjected to heat. As soon as the 
cuttings are well rooted remove the glasses, 
and put them singly in 3-inch pots, using 
soil similar to that in which they were 
struck, but with less sand in it ; when top 
growth fairly begins pinch out the points 
of the shoots, and treat generally, in the 
matters of air and water, as required for 
other softwooded greenhouse plants. About 
the end of March move them into 6-inch 
pots, well drained, using Sol well enriched 
with rotten manure; in April put them in 
a cold frame or pit, where they can be 
kept close to the glass and have/Plenty of 
air, with means to just keep out the frost 
on the sharp nights that often come about 
that time. At the beginning of May inure 
them to the open air by taking off the lights 
in the daytime ; a little later on stop the 
shoots, and stand the plants out in the full 
sun, with the pots plunged in ashes, not 
too close together. In June, before they 
get at all pot-bound, move the plants into 
their blooming pots, which may be from 
10 to 12 inches in diameter, according to 
the size they are intended to be grown to. 
Use plenty of drainage material, and do 
not make the soil too fine; put more 
rotten manure in it than most plants would 
bear, and a good sprinkling of sand. 
Tie the shoots well out to sticks so as to 
keep the centres of the plants open, and 
plunge the pots in ashes, standing them 
far enough apart to prevent their being in 
