144 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
DESFONTAINEA, 
a number of fine things that are thus con- 
signed to neglect, simply through a want 
of consideration of the conditions under 
which they exist naturally, and which to 
some extent must be imitated under culti- 
vation if success is to be attained. 
The plant is a native of Patagonia, 
where, according to Dr. Hooker, it occupies 
a position some 12,000 feet above the level 
of the sea; from this it may be easily 
supposed that it is hardy in some parts of 
the kingdom. Many plants will flower 
freely even when their growth has been 
made under the necessarily somewhat con- 
fined condition of the air in a greenhouse 
during the spring months, if they are later 
on in the season subjected to a hardening 
process out-of-doors, whereby the wood is 
ripened ; but in the case of others, such as 
this Desfontainea, the growth of which is 
somewhat slow and the wood and leaves of 
a very hard nature, unless the growth is 
made under conditions that ensure its 
being fully solidified as it is formed, no 
amount of exposure to sun and air after- 
wards will make up the deficiency so as to 
enable it to set and produce flowers in 
quantity. This will be understood by 
growers of Cape Heaths, some of which— 
notably the species depressa—can never be 
induced to flower freely unless the greater 
portion of the growth is formed in the open 
air. With this kind the usual exposure 
out-of-doors in the latter part of summer 
will not suffice ; the plant, 1f it is to bloom 
well, requires its growth to be in a great 
measure made in the open air, fully exposed 
to the sun all through the summer. This 
is more fully exemplified in the case of 
Desfontainea, which should be stood out- 
of-doors from the time the frosts are over 
in the spring until the autumn is far ad- 
vanced, although this may not be advisable 
in the case of small plants, it being better 
to keep them under glass until they have 
attained some size, as in this way they 
will make quicker progress. It is free in 
forming roots, and will succeed in either 
peat or loam, but the latter is usually 
more conducive to the free production of 
flowers. 
The plant is propagated from cuttings of 
the young shoots in a semi-ripened state, 
taken off about August, and put 2 or 3 
inches apart in good-sized pans in sand, 
covered close with a propagating glass, 
kept moist and shaded in a cool house or 
pit through the autumn and winter, during 
which time the base of the cuttings will 
callus. About March put them in a Little 
warmth, when they will soon root. By 
June they will be fit to place singly in 
3-inch pots, and should be kept a little close 
until they have begun to grow ; give more 
air in the autumn, and winter in a green- 
house or pit. About March pinch out the 
tops of the shoots, and as soon as they 
show signs of growing move into pots 3. 
inches larger. Select the best turfy loam, 
retaining all the fibre ; add as much sand 
as will keep the soil for years in a suffi- 
ciently porous condition, for an evergreen 
of this description will not well bear any 
of the soil being removed from its ball, 
and as it is a plant that will last for a 
number of years with fair treatment pro- 
vision should be made in having a material 
that is not likely to soon get into an un- 
healthy state. Drain the pots well, and 
ram the soil so as to make it firm ; during 
this spring and summer keep them along 
with the general stock of young hard- 
wooded plants, encouraging growth by 
closing the house early enough to secure 
for a few hours a warm, growing tempera- 
ture made sufficiently moist by sprinkling 
water about and syringing the plants over- 
head. They are not liable to become 
drawn, but should, nevertheless, be stood 
where they will get plenty of light, or the. 
base of the plants will not be properly 
furnished ; the somewhat rigid character 
of the shoots make them more difficult to 
bend, yet from the first they should be 
trained out or the bottom will ultimately 
become naked. So far as possible get the 
strongest shoots thus well out and as low 
down as can be at the commencement. As. 
the roots enter the new soil freely. give 
more water, for, like most plants from a 
high altitude, they do not lke to be kept 
too dry ; they require only enough shade 
to prevent the leaves burning. Continue 
this treatment through the summer until 
the middle of August, when turn the 
plants out-of-doors in the full sun, pro- 
tecting the pots from its direct force. 
They may remain out until the end of 
September, after which remove them to a 
house or pit where frost will be excluded ; 
give just as much water as will keep the 
soil in a healthy state. In March go over 
the plants and shorten back slightly any 
shoots that are taking an undue lead of the 
weaker ones; in April again give them 
fresh pots, proportioning the size of the 
shift to the root-progress they have 
made, and using similar soil in a little 
rougher state ; the shoots should now be 
well tied out, so as to secure handsome 
symmetrical specimens. Do not keep the 
atmosphere too close, as it is not desirable 
that much tender growth should be en- 
couraged, as it would be liable to suffer 
from sudden exposure in the open air, to 
which the plants should be removed to- 
