DROSERA. 
more air than in the previous summer, 
but not so much, nor should the atmo- 
sphere be so dry, as for older stock; a 
slight syringing overhead may be given at 
shutting up time in the afternoons. Again 
stop the shoots when they begin to move 
freely, and treat as in the preceding 
summer with the exception of now con- 
tinuing to give more air. Look closely to 
the plants every day to see what water 
is required, and never give any until the 
soil is dry enough to need it. Continue 
this till August, when give more air, 
keeping cooler through the autumn, and 
winter at about 45° in the night. In the 
spring towards the end of March repot in 
the best fibrous peat, to which add one- 
seventh of sand ; pot firm and give a 2 or 
3 inch shift, which will be sufficient, as 
there are few plants that require less root- 
room. Keep them a little close until they 
take to the new soil, and be careful in the 
use of water. Cut the shoots back to 
within 4 or 5 inches of where they were 
stopped the last time ; treat through the 
summer, autumn, and winter as before. 
About the same time in the spring give 
pots 2 inches larger. Towards the end of 
April the flowers will be fast pushing up. 
At the base of the flower-stalk, about 6 or 
8 inches below the flowers, a number of 
buds will be found—the shoots the plant 
is pushing for another year. If these are 
allowed to go on the plant will get thin 
and straggling, consequently after blooming 
the shoots should be cut back half-way 
between these buds, and where the last 
year’s shoots spring from ; this will keep 
them in a sufficiently compact state. Treat 
through the summer as advised for the 
preceding, and winter similarly as to light 
and water. A temperature of about 40° 
will now be sufficient ; the following 
spring they will flower from every point. 
After the blooming is over cut back as 
advised last year ; do not allow the shoots 
to remain at greater length, and when 
they have fairly broken again give a 2 or 
3 inch shift. When they have reached 
this size it is better not to re-pot until 
after flowering, as they will now be very 
useful for general decoration. Through 
the summer and autumn treat as hereto- 
fore, and winter as previously advised. 
After they have bloomed the following 
year shorten the shoots as before, and give 
a 2 or 3 inch shift, which in most cases 
will be as large as ever found necessary for 
this plant, for afterwards sufficient strength 
can be kept up by giving weak manure- 
water once a fortnight through the growing 
season. 
This Dracophyllum is better never 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
155 
turned out in the open air ; it is not sub- 
ject to mildew, consequently requires no 
hardening, and it is naturally such a free 
flowerer that it needs no exposure in this 
way to ripen the growth. 
We have said nothing so far respecting 
training the plant. Each time it is potted 
insert as many sticks in the new soil as are 
requisite to support and keep the outer 
extremity in shape ; by this means the 
least possible injury will be done to the 
roots, and as the centre of the plant re- 
quires the sticks to be replaced, put the 
new ones in the holes the old ones have 
occupied : so managed little injury will be 
done. The plant is a thin, wiry, weak 
grower, requiring to be well supported ; 
the sticks should always be somewhat 
thinner than requisite for things of a 
stronger habit of growth, and no more 
supports than are absolutely necessary 
should be used. In the training of this 
plant we frequently see so many sticks 
employed as to make them much the most 
prominent feature, which is most objection- 
able, and only exceeded in ugliness by 
placing it, as is sometimes done, on a wire 
trellis. 
Insects.—There are few plants so little 
subject to the attacks of insects ; if brown 
scale appear they increase so slowly on it 
that they are easily kept down by the 
occasional use of a small brush or sponge. 
DROSERA. 
These are very interesting plants; the 
British species, popularly called by the 
name of Sundews, are well known. The 
exotic kinds that require a warm green- 
house or cool stove to do them justice are 
much larger growers than the native 
species. They should have plenty of light 
and moisture, and do best in living 
sphagnum with some fibrous peat and pot- 
sherds added ; the material should be kept 
constantly wet almost to saturation. 
They are easily propagated from seeds, 
which should be sown in a mixture of 
finely-chopped sphagnum and_ peat, to 
which add a little sand. Press the 
material firm, and scatter the seeds on the 
surface, having first settled it well with 
water ; afterwards stand the pots in a pan 
of water, by which means little will be 
required to be applied on the surface. 
Place the pots in a moderate stove heat ; 
as soon as the seedlings are large enough to 
handle put them singly in small pots, and 
treat in the matter of water and warmth 
as already advised. Give a little shade in 
bright weather during summer, with plenty 
of light. All that is requisite further is to 
